Apply putty with a spatula to the previously prepared surface of the damaged area of the body panel. To achieve the desired surface contour and putty level, each stroke with a spatula should go through the entire surface to be repaired. As soon as the contour of the putty surface becomes close to the required one, immediately stop applying the putty, as it, when cured, will begin to stick to the spatula, forming lumps and leaving gaps on the surface to be treated. Continue applying coats of paste at intervals of about 20 minutes until the filler surface is slightly above the surrounding metal of the panel.
After the putty has hardened, remove its excess with a file. Next, the stage of sanding and grinding the puttied surface begins. Waterproof sandpaper is best suited for this purpose. Start with #180 Coarse Grain and work your way down to #600 Grain (wood or foam) or stick on it. Moisten the paper regularly and frequently with water during processing. This technology allows you to achieve absolute smoothness and evenness of the treated surface at the final stage.
As a result, the machined surface should be surrounded by a ring of pure metal. Rinse the treated surface with clean water, washing off all the dust formed during grinding.
From an aerosol can, apply a thin layer of a light primer on the treated surface, the so-called developing layer. This will reveal all the defects made during grinding, which can be eliminated by applying a new layer of putty. Repeat sanding and sanding. Repeat puttying, treatment and priming of the surface until a satisfactory (on the quality of the resulting surface) result. When finished, rinse the treated surface with water and dry it.
The surface is now ready for painting. Apply paint from an aerosol can in a dry area. If circumstances force you to paint the body outdoors, you should be very serious about choosing the right weather conditions. If you are painting one body panel of the car, cover the surrounding undamaged panels. This precaution will minimize the effect of a slight difference in tones between the old and new paints. Finishing elements such as chrome decorative strips, door handles, etc. should also be covered (better yet, take it off). To protect non-paintable surfaces, use a special adhesive tape (painting «tape») and old newspapers stacked in several layers.
Shake the can thoroughly before painting with an aerosol can, then apply the paint to a test surface, practicing the painting technique. Coat the surface prepared for painting with a primer in several stages. Sparing no water, use moisture-resistant sandpaper No. 600 to process the primed surface, achieving its absolute smoothness. Allow the primer to dry completely before proceeding with the final painting.
Apply a layer of paint, again achieving the required thickness by applying it several times. Start painting from the center of the area to be repaired, making circular movements with the can. Increase their radius by moving in a spiral until the entire damaged area and part of the old paintwork is covered by a width of about five centimeters. After 10-15 minutes (not later, so as not to damage the edge of the fresh paint starting to harden) after applying the last coat of paint, peel off the newspapers and adhesive tape that covered the surrounding body panels. The paint cures completely within about two weeks, after which, to smooth the transition from fresh paint to previously applied paint, treat the repaired surface with the finest sanding paste. Finally, apply a layer of protective wax to the panel.