Car fault diagnostics (Mazda Familia BG)

Engine

The engine starts poorly or does not start at all

Errors when starting.

• On a cold engine: Press the gas pedal fully once and release it. Press the clutch fully and start the engine.
• If the temperature is below freezing or the car has not been used for several days, the gas pedal should be pressed two or three times
• On a warm engine: When starting, press the gas pedal halfway. Start the engine. When the engine starts, release the gas pedal. Do not pump the gas pedal.
• On a hot engine: Press the gas pedal fully and hold it in this position (do not pump), start the engine. After starting, release the pedal.

Injector engine: When starting, do not press the gas pedal.

Diesel engine:

• On a cold engine: Turn on the ignition, when the indicator lamp goes out, fully depress the clutch and gas pedals and start the engine.
• On a warm engine: Preheating is not required, the engine can be started immediately. If the engine does not start immediately, wait a little and try starting again. Let the engine idle for a while before applying gas.

The ignition system is faulty or dirty. Check the ignition system according to the fault table.

The power supply system is faulty or dirty. Check the power supply system according to the fault table.



The starter turns very slowly. Charge the battery. Check the starter.

Valve clearance does not meet requirements. Adjust valve clearance.

The valve timing is out of alignment. Check the valve timing, check the timing belt tension.

Compression pressure too low. Adjust valve clearance, overhaul engine.

The cylinder head gasket is faulty. Replace the gasket.

On a diesel engine: the preheating system is faulty. Check the preheating system according to the fault table.

The injectors are faulty. Check the injectors.

The fuel injection pump is faulty. Check the fuel injection pump.

Engine lubrication system

The indicator lamp does not light after the ignition is turned on

The oil pressure sensor is faulty. Turn on the ignition. Disconnect the sensor wire and short it to ground. If the lamp lights up, replace the sensor.

There is no voltage supplied to the sensor, the contacts are corroded. Check the electrical wires and contacts.

The indicator lamp is faulty. Replace the indicator lamp.

The indicator light does not go out after starting the engine

The oil is too warm. It is normal for the indicator light to go out after gas is supplied.

The indicator light does not go out after gas is applied or lights up while driving

The oil pressure is too low. Check the oil level.

The wire to the oil pressure sensor has a short circuit to ground. Disconnect the cable from the sensor and move it to the side (without shorting to ground).

The oil pressure sensor is faulty. Replace the sensor.

Oil pressure too low at all speeds

There is too little oil in the engine. Add oil.



The mesh filter is clogged. Remove the oil pan, clean the mesh filter.

The oil pump is worn out. Remove the oil pump and check it, replace it if necessary.

Bearing damage. Remove engine.

Too low oil pressure at low speeds

The pressure reducing valve is stuck open due to contamination. Remove and check the valve.

Oil pressure too high at speeds above 3000 rpm

The pressure reducing valve does not open due to contamination. Remove and check the valve.

Engine cooling system

Coolant temperature is too high, the needle is in the red area

There is too little coolant in the system. The expansion tank must be filled to the mark. Add liquid if necessary. Check the cooling system for leaks.

The thermostat does not open, the coolant circulates only in the small circuit. Check if the upper coolant hose is warm. If not, remove and check the thermostat, replace it if necessary. On the road: remove the thermostat. Without a thermostat, the engine reaches its normal operating temperature later, or does not reach it at all, so replace a faulty thermostat as soon as possible.

The tension of the water pump multi-ribbed V-belt is too low. Check and adjust the tension.

The radiator fins are dirty. Blow out the radiator with compressed air from the engine side.

The radiator is clogged inside due to limescale or rust, the lower radiator hose is cold. Replace the radiator.

The electric fan does not work. Check the tightness of the seat and the contact of the plug on the thermal switch and the fan motor. Check the thermal switch. On the road: Disconnect the plug from the thermal switch. The fan will run continuously while the ignition is on. As a rule, additional cooling by the fan is only necessary when driving in the urban cycle or in short segments. Check whether voltage is applied to the fan motor plug (ignition on, thermal switch plug shorted). If yes, replace the fan motor.



Radiator cap is faulty. Perform pressure test (is done in the workshop).

Coolant temperature gauge is faulty. Check gauge/sensor.

Ignition system

The engine starts poorly or does not start at all

No spark, distributor cap is wet and dirty. Clean and dry distributor cap.

Cracks in the distributor cap, burnt channels. Replace the distributor cap.

The contact carbon in the distributor cap is worn out. Replace the carbon.

The distributor rotor is faulty. Replace the rotor.

Distributor rotor resistance too high. Replace rotor.

Spark plug cables/caps resistance too high. Replace spark plug cables/caps.

The spark plug tips are connected incorrectly. Connect the spark plug tips in the sequence 1-3-4-2.

Spark plugs are damp from numerous starting attempts. Clean and dry spark plugs.

The spark plugs are wet or dirty on the outside. Clean and dry the spark plugs, put protective silicone caps on the spark plugs and tips.

Ignition coil power is too low. Check the tightness of the fit and the contact of the wires on the ignition coil.

Cracks and burnout channels in the ignition coil. Replace the ignition coil.

Loss of voltage due to electrical connections or wires touching engine hoses. Route wires properly.

The ignition timing is greatly shifted. Adjust the ignition timing.

The control device supply voltage is less than 9.5 V. Check the battery charge level.

Hall sensor is faulty. Check Hall sensor (is done in the workshop).

Carburetor

Cold engine won't start

The starting flap does not close. Check the automatic cold start.



The starting flap or rod has a heavy stroke. Make the flap move freely.

The fastening of the starting flap axis or drive lever has become loose. Remove the carburetor cover. Press in a new axis, if necessary a drive lever, insert a ball and spring.

The throttle valve does not open enough. Adjust the throttle valve clearance.

Fuel supply interrupted. Check fuel supply

• Fuel tank is empty. Fill with fuel
• Fuel lines are leaky, flattened. Check
• pipelines, replace if necessary
• The fuel pump is leaking. Replace the fuel pump
• The fuel pump diaphragm is torn. Replace the fuel pump.

The float and float needle valve are leaking. Replace, check the float level.

The jets are dirty or clogged. Clean, replace.

Engine stalls on cold start

The starting flap does not open and has a heavy stroke. Make the flap stroke light.

Insufficient fuel in the float chamber due to evaporation on a hot engine. Start the engine again, press the gas pedal several times and start the engine with the pedal pressed.

The engine stalls before reaching operating temperature

See the section Engine stalls on cold start.

Idle speed adjustment does not meet requirements. Adjust the speed and CO content.

The engine is sucking in extraneous air. Check the tightness of the intake tract.

The throttle shaft is worn out. Replace the carburetor.

The jet fastening in the carburetor has become loose. Tighten.

The carburetor mount has become loose. Tighten the mounting nuts, install a new carburetor gasket if necessary.

Hot start is difficult

Over-enrichment due to fuel evaporation and condensation. Run the engine at full throttle (Keeping the gas pedal pressed).



Formation of vapor locks in the fuel supply system. Start the engine at full throttle and move off with increased RPM. If the problem occurs again, change the brand of gasoline, fill up with branded gasoline.

Full power not achieved, intermittent at full load

The working mixture is too lean or too rich.

• The fuel filter is dirty. Replace it
• The jets are dirty. Clean them
• Fuel level too low/too high.

Adjust the float

• The gas tank ventilation is clogged. Clean it
• The throttle valve does not open fully. Adjust the gas drive.

Too little air flow.

• The starting flap does not open fully. Adjust the starting flap drive
• The air filter element is dirty. Clean and replace if necessary.

Fuel injection system

The engine does not start

When the starter is turned on, the electric fuel pump does not work. Check if voltage is applied to the pump. Check the electrical contacts for good conductivity.

The injection valves are stuck. Check the valves and replace them if necessary.

Fuel pressure too low. Check fuel pressure.

The air mass meter is faulty. Check the air mass meter.

The plug on the control unit is faulty. Check the plug and replace if necessary.

Cold engine starts poorly, runs unsteadily

CO content does not meet requirements. Check CO content and idle speed.

The coolant temperature sensor is faulty. Check the temperature sensor.

The air intake system is leaking. Check the intake system connections.

The air valve is faulty. Check the air valve.

Fuel pressure too low. Check fuel pressure.

A warm engine starts poorly and runs unsteadily

Low quality fuel, formation of vapor locks. Fill with branded fuel.



The air intake system is leaking. Check the intake system connections.

The engine runs intermittently

Electrical connections to the fuel pump are interrupted from time to time. Check the condition of the plug connections and connectors of the electrical wires of the fuel pump. Check the fuse. Clean the contacts, replace if necessary.

The control device plug is faulty. Check the plug and replace if necessary.

Low quality fuel, formation of vapor locks. Fill with branded fuel.

Fuel pressure too low. Check fuel pressure.

The fuel filter is clogged. Replace the fuel filter.

The coolant temperature sensor is faulty. Check the temperature sensor.

Injection valves are faulty. Check injection valves.

The air mass meter is faulty. Check the air mass meter.

The air intake system is leaking. Check the intake system connections.

The engine has interruptions in operation in transient modes

The air intake system is leaking. Check the intake system connections.

Incorrect idle speed adjustment. Check idle speed control valve, catalytic converter (lambda control).

The throttle position sensor is faulty or incorrectly adjusted. Check the throttle position sensor.

Hot engine won't start

Too high pressure in the fuel system. Check the fuel pressure, replace the pressure regulator if necessary.

The return line between the pressure regulator and the fuel tank is clogged or bent. Clean or replace the line.

The engine temperature sensor is faulty. Check the temperature sensor.

The injection valves are leaky. Remove the valves, leave the pipes connected, turn on the starter for a short time.



The fuel system is leaking. Visually inspect all connections in the engine and electric fuel pump area. Tighten all connections.

The air intake system is leaking. Check all connections of the intake system.

Diesel engine injection system

The engine does not start or starts poorly

Engine does not preheat. Check preheating system.

There is no voltage supplied to the fuel shut-off solenoid valve. Connect a voltage indicator to the solenoid valve.

The electromagnetic valve mount is loose, the valve is faulty. Check the tightness of the seat and reliable contact of the valve with the ground. Turn the ignition on and off, the valve should click.

The fuel supply system is faulty. Check that fuel is supplied.

The fuel lines are bent and clogged.

• leaky, with cracks. Check the fuel lines.
• the fuel filter is clogged. Clean the fuel lines.
• the fuel tank ventilation is clogged. The fuel screen in the tank is dirty. Clean it.

The injectors are faulty. Check the injectors.

The fuel injection pump is faulty. Install a new pump to check

The engine runs jerkily at idle when starting off

The hoses on the fuel pump or fuel filter have become loose. Replace the fuel hoses, secure with clamps, tighten the hollow bolts.

See the section Engine does not start or starts poorly.

Fuel consumption is too high

The fuel filter is dirty. Replace the filter element.

The fuel system is leaking. Perform a visual inspection of all fuel lines.

The return fuel line is clogged. Blow air through the return line from the high-pressure fuel pump to the fuel tank. Replace the bypass throttle in the hollow bolt of the return line.

Idle speed is too high. Adjust idle speed

The pre-glow indicator lamp does not light

The control lamp on the instrument panel is faulty. Replace the lamp.

Pre-glow system/glow plugs are faulty. Check glow plugs.

The glow plug indicator light does not light, the cold engine starts poorly

One or more glow plugs are faulty. Check and replace glow plugs if necessary.

Clutch

The clutch is jerking

Idle speed is too low. Adjust idle speed.

Engine or gearbox bearings are faulty. Check and replace if necessary.

The gearbox is not securely attached to the suspension. Tighten the mounting bolts.

The clutch cable is routed incorrectly (applies to mechanical cable operated clutch only). Properly route the cable.

The pressure plate presses unevenly. Replace the pressure plate.

A non-original MAZDA driven disk is installed. Install the original driven disk.

The driven disk is worn or oily. Check the driven disk.

The release bearing presses one way. Check the clutch release fork and the release bearing.

The clutch is slipping

Insufficient play in the clutch pedal. Adjust the play in the pedal.

The slave cylinder is jammed. Replace the slave cylinder.

The driven disk is worn. Check the thickness of the driven disk, replace if necessary.

Insufficient diaphragm spring strength. Replace pressure plate.

The lining has hardened or become oily. Replace the driven disk.

The clutch was overheated. Install a genuine MAZDA part.

Gears shift with difficulty or do not shift at all (the clutch does not disengage correctly)

The lining is stuck due to wear products. Replace the driven disk.

The driven disk is stuck on the primary shaft, the spline connection is dry or stuck. Clean the spline connection, remove burrs, remove rust if necessary and lubricate with MoS2 grease.

The driven disk has lateral runout. Check the driven disk.

Clutch play is too large. Adjust clutch pedal play.

Air in the clutch drive lines (for hydraulic clutch only). Bleed the clutch drive.

The clutch slave or master cylinders are faulty (for hydraulic clutch only). Repair clutch cylinders.

The pressure plate is faulty. Replace the pressure plate.

Heavy pedal stroke

Heavy pedal/cable axle travel (applies to mechanical cable operated clutch only). Lubricate or replace parts.

Unusual noises when engaging and disengaging the clutch

The release bearing is worn out. Replace the release bearing.

The parts in the clutch housing have come loose. Repair the clutch.

Brake system

Increased brake pedal travel

The brake pads are completely or partially worn out. Adjust or replace the brake pads.

The brake circuit is out of order. Check if brake fluid is leaking.

Drum brakes are not adjusted correctly. Check the brake shoe adjustment system.

The handbrake cable is too tight. Adjust the handbrake.

The brake pedal springs and sinks

Air in the brake system. Bleed the system.

Not enough fluid in the reservoir. Add new brake fluid.

Formation of steam bubbles. Occurs mainly under heavy load on the brakes. Replace brake fluid, bleed air from the system.

Reduced braking effect, pedal falls through

Leaky pipeline. Tighten the pipeline connections or replace the tubes.

Damage to the seals in the main or working brake cylinders. Replace the seal. Replace the internal elements in the main brake cylinder.

The sealing cuff between the brake circuits in the master brake cylinder is faulty. Replace the cuff.

Especially for disc brakes:

The rubber gasket is damaged. Repair the caliper.

Poor braking despite high pedal force

The brake linings are oily. Replace the brake pads.

Incorrect or hardened brake pads installed. Replace brake pads. Install original MAZDA brake pads.

The brake booster is faulty. Check the brake booster.

The piston is sticking. Repair the caliper.

The hydraulic system is dirty. Clean it.

Especially for disc brakes:

The brake pads are worn out. Replace the brake pads.

Brakes lock up when braking lightly

The brake pads are slightly oily. Replace the brake pads.

The return springs are weak. Replace the return springs.

Brakes get hot while driving

The compensation hole in the master brake cylinder is clogged. Clean the master cylinder and replace the internal components.

Insufficient free play on the master cylinder pushrod. Check.

Brake piston is sticking or has a hard stroke. Fix.

The brake line is clogged. Clean it.

The handbrake drive is jammed, the handbrake is incorrectly adjusted. Adjust the handbrake.

Especially for drum brakes:

The brake shoe return springs have weakened. Replace the return springs.

The brake pads do not move away from the brake disc, the wheel is difficult to turn by hand

Especially for disc brakes:

Corrosion in brake caliper cylinders. Repair the caliper.

Uneven wear of brake pads

Especially for disc brakes:

The brake pads are of the wrong type. Replace the pads.

The caliper is dirty. Clean the caliper well.

Heavy piston stroke. Fix.

The brake system is not sealed. Check the sealing of the brake system.

When braking, the car pulls to the side

The tire pressure is not correct. Check and adjust the tire pressure.

Uneven tire wear. Replace worn tires.

The brake pads are oily. Replace the pads.

Wheel suspension or steering components are faulty. Check.

Different types of brake pads are installed on one axle. Replace the pads. Install original MAZDA brake pads.

Damage to the working surface of the brake pad. Replace the brake pads.

The brake line is clogged. Check the brake pressure of all 4 brakes.

Especially for disc brakes:

The caliper wells are dirty. Clean the guides and seating surfaces of the pads in the caliper.

Corrosion of brake caliper cylinders. Replace the caliper.

Uneven wear of brake pads. Replace brake pads (on both wheels).

Especially for drum brakes:

The pistons in the wheel cylinders have a heavy stroke. Replace the wheel cylinder.

Squeaking brakes

The brake pad is worn out (the wear sensor is adjacent to the brake disc). Replace the brake pads.

Often the reason is atmospheric influence (air humidity). If the creaking appears after a long period of parking in high humidity and then disappears, no work is carried out.

Especially for disc brakes:

The brake pads are of the wrong type. Replace the pads.

The brake disc does not rotate parallel to the caliper. Check the mating surfaces of the brake caliper.

The caliper shaft is dirty. Clean the caliper shaft.

The springs are stretched. Replace the springs.

Especially for drum brakes:

The brake pads are of the wrong type. Replace the pads.

The shoe does not fit properly. Replace the shoes.

The brake is dirty. Clean the brakes.

The return springs have weakened. Replace the return springs.

Pedal pulsation

Especially for disc brakes:

Brake disc lateral runout or thickness tolerance too large. Check runout and thickness. Treat or replace disc.

The brake disc does not rotate parallel to the caliper. Check the caliper mating surface.

Especially for drum brakes:

Uneven surface of the wheel disk contact with the brake drum, causing the drum to be skewed. You can try swapping the wheels. Better: Boring the brake drum with the wheel bolted on a lathe.

The brake tightens by itself

The compensation hole in the master brake cylinder is clogged. Clean the master cylinder and replace the internal components.

The clearance between the drive rod and the piston of the master brake cylinder is too small. Check the clearance (is done in the workshop).

The brakes are shaking

The brake pads are of the wrong type. Replace the pads.

Especially for disc brakes:

The brake disc is corroded in places. Carefully polish the brake disc.

The brake disc has lateral runout. Treat or replace the disc.

Especially for drum brakes:

The brake pads are worn out. Replace the pads.

The brake drum is not round. Ream the brake drum.

Wedge-shaped wear of brake pads

Especially for disc brakes:

The brake disc does not rotate parallel to the caliper. Check the caliper mating surfaces.

Corrosion in the calipers. Remove contamination.

The piston is not working properly. Check the piston position.

Wheels and tires

Tire wear

Excessive tire wear on both sides of the working surface. Tire pressure too low.

Severe wear of the tire in the middle of the working surface, all around the circumference. Too high tire pressure.

Uneven tread wear. Static and dynamic wheel imbalance. Possibly too much lateral runout of the disc.

Uneven wear in the middle of the profile. Static imbalance of the wheel. Possibly a consequence of strong vertical runout.

Severe wear of individual areas in the middle of the working surface. Traces of blocking during full braking.

Saw-tooth wear of the profile. Often together with a cord break that is not visible from the outside.

Overloading the vehicle. Check the inside of the tire for cord breaks.

Rubber tabs on the side edges of the profile. Incorrect wheel alignment. The tire is worn. Also check the condition of the shock absorber on the rear wheels. Formation of burrs on one side of the front wheel profile. Incorrect toe-in adjustment. The tire is worn. Frequent driving on wavy surfaces. Fast driving on turns.

There are ruptures on the base of the tire. At first they are visible only from the inside. Driving over sharp rocks.

The working surface is worn on one side. Check the camber adjustment.

Heater

The heater fan does not work

The fan motor fuse is faulty. Check the fan fuse and replace if necessary.

The fan switch is faulty. Check if voltage is applied to the pre-resistors, remove and check the fan switch.

The electric motor is faulty. Check the electric motor.

The heater fan does not work at one of the stages

The pre-resistor is faulty. Check the pre-resistors.

Heating power too low

Coolant level too low. Check coolant level, top up if necessary.

The heater drive is difficult to operate and is faulty. Check the heater drive and replace the cable drive if necessary.

The heat exchanger is leaky or clogged. Replace the heat exchanger (is done in the workshop).

The fan does not turn off

The heater drive is difficult to operate and is faulty. Check the heater drive and replace the cable drive if necessary.

Noise in the area of the heater fan

Dirt and leaves got in. Remove the fan and clean it, clean the air duct.

Impeller imbalance, bearing failure. Remove the fan motor, check for ease of movement and bearing play.

Electrical equipment system

Battery

Electrolyte level too low

Recharging, liquefaction (especially in summer). Add distilled water to the required level (on a charged battery).

Electrolyte comes out of the plugs

Charging voltage too high. Check voltage regulator.

The electrolyte level is too high. Remove excess electrolyte with a suction pump.

The electrolyte density is too low

The density of the electrolyte in one of the cans is significantly lower than in the others. Short circuit in one can. Replace the battery.

The density of the electrolyte in two adjacent cans is clearly lower than in the others. The bulkhead is not hermetically sealed, which causes a conductive connection between the cans, which causes them to discharge. Replace the battery.

The battery is discharged. Charge the battery.

The generator is faulty. Check the generator, repair or replace if necessary.

Short circuit in the wires. Check the electrical system.

Electrolyte contains a large amount of water due to maintenance errors. Balance the ratio.

The electrolyte density is too high

Add acid. Balance the ratio.

Too low output power, voltage drops sharply

The battery is discharged. Charge the battery.

Charging voltage too low. Check voltage regulator, replace if necessary.

The connection terminals are loose or oxidized. Clean the terminals, especially the underside.

Poor ground connection between battery, engine and body. Check ground connection, install metal connections or tighten bolts if necessary.

Excessive self-discharge of the battery due to contamination of the electrolyte. Replace the battery.

The battery is sulfated (gray-white coating on positive and negative plates). Charge the battery with a small current to remove the plaque, if after repeated charging and discharging the output power remains low, replace the battery.

The battery is worn out, the active mass of the plates is out of order. Replace the battery.

Insufficient battery charge

Generator, voltage regulator or wiring contacts are faulty. Check the generator and voltage regulator, repair or replace; secure the wires perfectly.

The V-belt is loose. Tighten or replace the V-belt.

Too many consumers are connected. Install a larger battery.

Long recharge

Voltage regulator fault, possibly alternator. Replace voltage regulator or check alternator.

Generator

The charge indicator lamp does not light when the ignition is on

The battery is discharged. Charge the battery.

The generator ground bus is loose or corroded. Check the ground cable contact reliability, tighten the bolt.

The lamp has burned out. Replace it.

The fuse has blown. Replace the ignition and charging system fuse.

The regulator is faulty. Check the regulator, replace if necessary.

Broken wires between the generator, ignition switch and indicator lamp. Check with a voltmeter according to the diagram.

The plug connection between the relay board and the generator is open. Check and replace the plug if necessary.

Carbon brushes do not fit the slip ring. Check the free play and length of the brushes.

The generator excitation winding has burned out. Replace the rotor.

The charge indicator lamp does not go out when the engine speed increases

The V-belt is loose. Tighten the V-belt.

The carbon brushes are worn out. Replace the carbon brushes.

The regulator is faulty. Check the regulator, replace if necessary.

The wire between the generator and the indicator lamp has a short to ground. Replace the wiring harness.

The charge indicator lamp lights up after the ignition is turned off

Positive diodes have short circuit. Check diodes, replace diode board.

Starter

The starter does not turn when the ignition switch is turned on

The battery is discharged. Charge the battery.

Jumper terminals 30 and 50 of the starter: The starter rotates. Wire 50 to the ignition switch is broken, the starter switch is faulty. Fix the break, replace the defective parts.

Ground cable or connector broken, battery discharged. Check battery cables and connectors.

Insufficient current flow due to loose or oxidized connectors. Clean battery terminals and poles, check connections between battery, starter and ground.

No voltage at terminal 50 of the traction relay. Wire break, starter switch faulty.

The starter relay is faulty. Check the relay, replace if necessary

The starter rotates slowly and does not turn the crankshaft

Low battery. Charge the battery.

Summer oil is poured in. Fill in universal oil.

Insufficient current flow due to loose or oxidized connectors. Clean battery terminals and poles, check connections between battery, starter and ground.

Carbon brushes do not fit the collector, are stuck in the guides, are worn, broken, oily or dirty. Check the brushes, clean or replace. Check the guides.

Insufficient distance between brushes and commutator. Replace brushes and clean brush guides.

The collector is grooved or burnt and oiled. Treat the collector or replace the anchor.

No voltage at terminal 50 (min. 8 V). Check starter switch or traction relay.

The traction relay is faulty. Replace the traction relay.

The starter catches and turns the engine jerkily

The pinion drive is faulty. Replace the pinion drive.

The gear is dirty. Clean the gear.

The flywheel ring gear is faulty. Treat the ring gear, replace the flywheel if necessary.

The starter pinion does not move away from the ring gear

The pinion drive or threads are dirty or damaged. Clean or replace the pinion drive.

The traction relay is faulty. Replace the traction relay.

The return spring is weak or broken. Replace the return spring.

The starter continues to operate after the ignition key is released

The traction relay is stuck and won't turn off. Immediately turn off the ignition and replace the traction relay.

The ignition switch does not turn off. Disconnect the battery immediately, replace the ignition switch.

Windscreen wiper system

Windscreen wiper blades

Slippage

The rubber bands are dirty. Clean the rubber bands with a stiff nylon brush and a solution of detergent or alcohol.

The edges of the brushes are frayed, the rubber bands are worn or torn. Replace the rubber bands.

Old rubber bands, cracked surfaces. Replace rubber bands.

In the cleaning field, the remaining water immediately collects into drops

The windshield is contaminated with varnish polish or oil. Clean the windshield with a clean cloth and remover of grease, oil, silicones.

The brush cleans one-sidedly - one way is good, the other is not

The rubber band is deformed to one side "does not tip over anymore". Install a new rubber band.

The wiper arm is twisted, the blade does not fit exactly on the glass. Carefully turn the arm until the vertical position is reached.

Uncleaned surfaces

The rubber band has come loose from the frame. Carefully insert the rubber band into the frame.

The brush does not fit evenly to the glass because the spring bars or plates are bent. Replace the brush. This malfunction primarily occurs when the spare brush is installed carelessly.

The lever pressing force is too low. Lightly lubricate the wiper arm pivots and springs or install a new arm.