Sometimes the insulation can be restored by soaking the anchor in a can of motor oil. A much greater effect is achieved by slightly warming the drying oil if you keep the anchor in it in several stages, taking daily breaks for drying.
The same problem – a breakdown of the winding – befalls the windshield washer electric motor. This often happens due to the car owner's carelessness, when either the water tank is empty, or the liquid has frozen, or the spray nozzles or pump filter are completely clogged, and there is a "bug" in the fuse box in the electric motor circuit.
In general, it's better not to joke with fuses. This will not only avoid short circuits, which sometimes result in fire, but will also make it easier to detect faults.
For a novice car owner, there should be a golden rule: when searching for the causes of electrical equipment malfunctions, you need to start with the fuse box.
I remember when I was buying my first car, I noticed in the store that the battery charge indicator light was on. Then the assumption was born that, probably, either the generator brushes had not yet been adjusted, or the voltage regulator was "fooling" (at that time cars were equipped with mechanical relay regulators of Bulgarian production. Sometimes, they were triggered to "recharge", and the light bulb came on). Replacing the relay controller did not give any results: the generator simply did not generate power. Replacing the brush assembly also proved useless.
I had to remove the generator, having first drained the coolant from the system and dismantled the thermostat. Checking the generator windings and the diode bridge showed that everything was fine. Only later, after doing all this unnecessary work on a brand new car, did I think to look in the fuse box. Of course, there was simply no corresponding fuse in the generator winding excitation circuit.
So if your generator fails, start checking with the fuse. Even if it is intact, don't be lazy and clean the areas of its contact. Only after this should you take hold of the generator itself.
However, do not rush to disassemble and dismantle it. First, check the brush assembly. The presence of large chips on the brushes, their significant wear or oiling can already cause generator failure.
The text of the article is taken from the website: www.MAZbook.ru
Pay attention to the condition of the anchor contact rings, which are visible in the window into which the brush assembly is inserted. Scratches and grooves are removed with sandpaper and then polished. If these operations do not produce results, you will need to take on the rectifier unit, having first disconnected the wires from the battery and generator. The unit is checked using a test lamp. The negative pole of the battery is connected to the generator body, the positive pole is connected through the light bulb to terminal "30".
If the light comes on, it means the rectifier block is broken and needs to be replaced. It does happen, however, that either the positive or negative valves of the block break down. But it's probably better not to go into these subtleties, especially since replacing valves separately is not practiced.
Finally, about the starter. This is perhaps one of the most durable components of the car, although it "works" in the most difficult conditions. Even when an engine is completely overhauled, sometimes only the brushes in the starter are replaced and the contact rings are cleaned.
The weakest point of the starter is the overrunning clutch, or "bendix": the thrust rollers in it sometimes fly apart or get stuck. And then, when starting the engine, only a buzzing sound is heard: the starter rotates, but does not turn the engine flywheel. Sometimes washing the "Bendix" in kerosene or acetone helps. But skilled craftsmen, as a rule, flare the race with rollers and either replace all the race parts or thoroughly clean them.
Another common malfunction is not so much related to the starter itself, but to oxidation or breakage of the ends of the special braided bus that connects the engine to the body, that is, the "ground." (the tire is located under the engine). In this case, the starter makes characteristic clicks or is completely "silent", unless, of course, the "silence" is caused by another reason - disconnection of the positive wire of the starter relay. One way or another, verification is needed. If the relay wire is in place, grab the busbar. But if the wire does come out, don't try to insert it without removing the starter – you'll waste your time. The starter will have to be removed.