Tires
You can't walk on snow and ice in sandals – your car needs to be changed for winter too. We've written about winter tires many times, so we'll just briefly recap the main points.
Winter tires are marked M+S (Mud+Snow – "Mud+Snow"), Winter ("Winter") or W. These inscriptions are sometimes accompanied by pictograms in the form of a snowflake or cloud.
It is better to choose tires that are narrower than those you drive on in the summer - naturally, within the size range permitted for your car. The tread must be able to push through the snow and mud slush to the hard surface, and narrow tires cope with this better.
It is not advisable to drive in winter on all-season tires – those marked with the indexes AS (All Seasons) or AW (Any Weather).
their "winter" capabilities are weak; they can only be considered all-season in the true sense of the word if we're talking about low-snow conditions in Europe, not Russia. This applies less to SUV tires. In its all-season version, it is significantly more "winter" than a passenger car. If you have an SUV, AS and AW tires are acceptable in winter. But, of course, worse than M+S or Winter.
Studded tires provide better grip on ice and snow than non-studded tires. But on clean asphalt, when braking with studded tires, the likelihood of wheel lockup, skidding, and braking distance increases: steel studs glide well on the asphalt. Another danger is that drivers blindly trust the studs and, when braking on asphalt, expect them to have the same dead grip as on ice. By the way, new generation non-studded winter tires perform almost as well on slippery surfaces as studded ones.
Some people install studded tires only on the drive wheels for the winter. And they leave the summer ones on the slaves. Don't do that, it's dangerous. On a slippery road, the risk of a non-studded pair of wheels slipping is very high, even in relatively harmless situations – the coefficients of adhesion and lateral resistance differ too greatly.
Don't stud your tires anywhere. This is a responsible process that requires good equipment and specialists. Studs that are crooked, too deep, or too deep into the rubber increase tire wear. And, of course, they don't contribute to safety.
Engine
The main problem in winter is starting a cold engine. It most often occurs in carburetor engines, but in severe frost, the owner of a car with an injection engine can also encounter it. The reasons are known: thickened oil, decreased battery capacity and poor gasoline evaporation. We'll look at oils and batteries separately, but for now, a few words about the experience of countries with cold climates, where pre-start electric heaters—a sort of "water heater" in the engine cooling system—are widely used. You drive up to your home or office, plug it in, and turn on the timer... By the right time, the engine will be warmed up, and some designs also provide heating for the interior.
Electric heating devices have been available on the Russian market for several years now. The most popular are Finnish heaters, which can be equipped with timers. The cost, including installation, is about $250. A domestically produced heater (for VAZ models and the Volga) can be purchased for about $100, but it doesn't come with a timer.
The main disadvantage of electric heating is that you need a special panel with a socket at home or office. This is good for the Finns, but if we have the corresponding infrastructure, it will not be soon and not everywhere. Another option is an autonomous liquid fuel heater, which is also integrated into the engine cooling system and operates on the principle of a hot water boiler. The fuel used is gasoline or diesel fuel, depending on what your car's engine runs on.
The Russian market offers autonomous heaters from Eberspacher, Webasto, and also products from the Shchadrinsk Automobile Unit Plant (ShAAZ).
The heater can be installed at specialized stations, of which there are already many in Moscow and throughout Russia. Warm-up time is no more than 15 minutes, and it uses only 200 grams of gasoline or diesel fuel. Such heaters (besides the timer) can be equipped with a remote control device. The cost of an autonomous heater on the Russian market is about $1000.
Another benefit of heating systems is that their use increases the engine's service life. For reference: each cold start at 20°C is equivalent to a mileage of 800 km. Incidentally, according to modern thinking, the engine will reach operating temperature faster and wear less if you don't sit still after starting, but rather start moving as quickly as possible, avoiding, of course, excessive engine load.
Oil
Oil changes are usually made based on the vehicle's mileage, not the season. But since people change their oil on average every six months, why not do it before winter?
The vast majority of modern motor oils are, to one degree or another, all-season. It is believed that you need to fill in what the manufacturer prescribes in the vehicle's operating instructions. But winters come in all shapes and sizes—from slushy warmth to freezing cold. And it's completely unclear whether the manufacturer intended their car to be used in Russian winter conditions and that it would require a cooler oil.
If you decide to deviate from the instructions, when choosing oil, you can use a simple technique to determine its temperature suitability – just to be on the safe side. Let's call this technique the "rule of 35".
Motor oil labeling should include its viscosity grade on the SAE scale. For example: 15W-40. This means that this oil meets the viscosity requirements of a 15W winter oil at sub-zero temperatures and a 40W summer oil at above-zero temperatures.
Remember the number 35. If you subtract the "winter" viscosity grade index from it, which in our example is 15, you get a value called the maximum pumping temperature, which is the temperature at which the oil still remains fluid.
35 – 15 = 20. This means that 15W-40 oil can be used at temperatures down to -20°C.
Accordingly, the lower the "winter" viscosity grade index, the "colder" the oil. 10W – down to -25°C; 5W – up to -30°C.
This is the "rule of 35". Simple and useful.
Battery
The frost has hit, and the battery, which just yesterday was vigorously turning the starter, flatly refuses to do so. No surprise there – when was the last time you charged it?
If the battery is relatively young (up to 3-4 years old), then before winter, it is enough to wash it outside, clean the terminals and fully charge it. If the car was constantly used in the city, the battery charge is probably far from the nominal level. If the battery is old and won't charge to its rated capacity, replace it without hesitation. Otherwise, it's sure to fail in winter—its capacity already drops significantly with lower temperatures, and now there's increased energy consumption—for the heater, heated seats, lights, windshield wipers, rear window defroster...
Incidentally, according to experts, the average lifespan of a battery is about twelve months, after which it begins to gradually deteriorate. And according to sellers, the peak sales of starter batteries occurs in the fall.
The days when car owners would run off their feet searching for a new battery are long gone – the variety of brands and models on store shelves is overwhelming. Which one to choose is a personal matter. Let us just note that there are currently two price groups on the market – batteries costing over $60 (usually up to $100), for example, "Bosch", "Steco", "American", "Fiamm", and batteries priced under $60 ("Mutlu", "Inci", "Centra", "SAEM" etc.).
The higher prices of batteries of the first group are determined by the more advanced technology of their production. These batteries are generally classified as maintenance-free. Special types of electrolytes and the sealed design of these batteries increase their service life and provide high starting currents, guaranteeing engine cranking even in severe frost. Leading manufacturers now routinely use plate stacking technology, which helps prevent short-circuiting of the battery in the event of plate failure.
Cheaper batteries require periodic maintenance - checking the density of the electrolyte and measuring its level. Let us remember that the electrolyte density for the winter period should not be lower than 1.29.
Often, when buying a new battery, people try to choose one with a larger capacity, just so that it fits into the space allocated for it. But capacity is not the main thing. Much more important is the starting current provided by the battery. After all, even a battery with a large capacity has this indicator (due to high intrinsic resistance) may be lower than that of a battery with a lower capacity. In addition, a battery with a higher capacity requires a higher recharging current, which your car's alternator will not provide, and the battery will discharge more and more during operation, which will have a detrimental effect on its service life.
By the way, if you buy a battery that's different from the standard one, pay attention to the location of its terminals—some batteries have "reverse polarity," and your car's wires may not be able to reach the terminals.
Ignition system
If you have a new foreign-made car, especially with an injection engine, you don't need to read any further. But if the car is used, with a carburetor engine, then it's a different matter. In fact, the fuel and ignition systems are not connected to each other. But on modern injection engines you won't find either the infamous mechanical distributor or breaker contacts. And on carburetor ones - as much as you like. And to avoid fiddling around in the cold later, the contacts need to be cleaned, as well as the distributor cap (or better yet, replace it). Even better is to replace the classic ignition system with an electronic one (if there are still car owners who haven't done this).
Don't forget about high voltage wires. After a couple of years of driving on our "salty" roads, it is advisable to replace them, and preferably with wires with a silicone sheath, which are less sensitive to temperature changes. In addition, they do not form frost, which is often the reason for the lack of spark. By the way, a common cause of ignition problems could be corrosion or poorly tightened battery terminals.
A separate word about spark plugs. They are usually changed after 15,000–20,000 kilometers, or every eighteen months (we don't take the most modern ones that can withstand 100 thousand km or more). There is no need to skimp on spark plugs – they need to be heated, cleaned and gaps adjusted. Change it at least once a year – it's inexpensive. And install new ones just before winter. Fuel system
It is often the cause of unsatisfactory engine performance in winter. And all because of the water condensation accumulated in the fuel tank. If the tank has a drain plug, the water can simply be drained; if not, it can be neutralized using so-called "water displacers." Almost all leading auto chemical manufacturers present on the Russian market (STP, Loctite, WynnXs, Aspokem), they offer similar preparations that are poured into the fuel tank and gradually clean the fuel system.
It wouldn't hurt to install a new fine fuel filter, clean the carburetor, and if the engine has an injection system, make sure the injectors are clean.
Owners of foreign diesel cars, especially if the vehicle was previously driven in a country with a mild climate, should consider equipping the fuel system with special heating devices. Experience shows that starting a diesel engine at -20°C can be difficult because the fuel loses its flowability (how "winter-grade" the diesel fuel sold in our country is is anyone's guess). One effective measure is the use of heated fuel lines and filters. Moreover, the diesel engine can be started even at -40°C. Heating is provided by elements powered by the standard battery.
The current they consume is about 5A; turning on the heaters for 5–10 minutes has virtually no effect on the battery capacity.
Body
Winter is not the best season for a car, especially when driving on streets heavily salted. It is during this period that the body is most susceptible to corrosion, and its anti-corrosion treatment is highly desirable. However, according to employees of some authorized service centers, for a number of new foreign cars, especially those with galvanized bodies, factory treatment is quite sufficient. But if you have, say, a new Skoda (not to mention domestic passenger cars), then experts recommend carrying out a complete anti-corrosion treatment of the underbody, wheel arches and hidden cavities of the body.
It would also be a good idea to install mudguards.
The cost of these services is on average $250–300 and depends mainly on the type of protective drugs used. There are quite a few of them on our market now. But first of all, it is probably worth paying attention to those that are used in countries with a climate similar to ours. These could be Finnish Mercasol AL with aluminum additives, Swedish Noxudol on a metallized base, Canadian Rust stop or Tektyl.
Anti-corrosion treatment requires strict adherence to technology, and although almost all manufacturers of protective materials produce them in packaging for household use, it is still preferable to have the treatment carried out in a specialized service center. It is worth finding out in advance what technology it is produced using. In any case, before applying the protective coating to the underbody and arches, the car must be cleaned of dirt, washed and thoroughly dried.
Since you're applying anti-corrosion treatment for several years, it's best to be present near the car and personally observe the process.
Winter is also a difficult test for the paintwork of a car body. Sudden temperature changes, snow mixed with salt, and ice crust – all this leads to the appearance of microcracks in the paint. The car's surface can be protected with a special compound suitable for use at low temperatures, such as Plus Teflon or Color Magic. These products should be applied approximately once a month, after the car has been washed and dried.
The question of where to store a car in winter is usually not an issue – those who have a garage keep it in the garage, those who don't keep it outside. Oddly enough, from a bodywork safety standpoint (from corrosion, not from theft), between trips and overnight, it's best to leave your car outside—when the body is cold, the corrosion process slows down. In a cold garage, the heat generated by the car is enough to warm it up a little, and the melted snow and salt actively do their dirty work for a while. Well, in a warm garage, even if you thoroughly washed the salt from underneath the car, it will stand wet all night...
Glass
Visibility is not only about comfort, but also about safety. Therefore, it hardly needs reminding that the windshield wipers, blowers and heated glass must be in good working order. Throw away brushes that leave matte streaks on the glass. When buying new ones, try to choose branded ones – Bosch, ITE, Champion... Residents of northern regions can try heated wiper blades that connect to the vehicle's electrical system – they have recently become available for sale.
Another active safety element is the side rearview mirrors. In winter, they have to be cleared of ice or snow every day. This disrupts their original installation, which causes additional problems. For an extra $250, you can upgrade to heated and power-folding mirrors, which will make driving more enjoyable.
Now directly about the glass. It is better to entrust their inspection to a specialist, but personal supervision will not hurt either. After all, even a small chip on the windshield will turn into a full-fledged crack in the first frost after the autumn rain. Existing repair technologies make it possible to eliminate such a defect without removing the glass. It's easier and cheaper than replacing the glass - repair (crack removal) 10 cm long will cost $50, and a new glass and its "gluing" will cost at least $350.
Another "winter" problem is fogging of the windows. If the ventilation system is working properly, this rarely happens, but... Using anti-fog liquids, such as Anti-Fog or Never Fog, helps. Just apply them to the glass once a week.
Consumables
All consumables, including antifreeze and hydraulic fluids in the brake and clutch drive, have their own service life. If you have even the slightest doubt, don't take a portion of the coolant that has turned brown or green from age from the radiator and put it in the freezer for testing. Replace the antifreeze. And don't skimp by buying dubious drugs without labels and certificates – it will cost you more.
You should be equally careful when choosing non-freezing windshield washers. This is in the countryside at -20° – dry and clean snow under the wheels. And in Moscow, even in severe frost, there is a dirty, greasy liquid that the wipers readily smear across the glass, turning it into an opaque whitish film. Therefore, a sufficient supply of fluid in the washer reservoir is an essential condition for safe driving. But when buying a fluid with a freezing point of -20°C, don't be fooled into thinking you need to dilute it, even if it's -10°C outside. Experience shows that while driving, fluids with a freezing point of -40°C freeze on the windshield even in ten-degree frost, if the windshield is not heated (back to the question of the proper functioning of the ventilation and heating system).
Antifreeze washer fluids typically contain additives that effectively remove dirt and clean the glass. Some of them, it's true, foam excessively, but they are much better than the cheap vodka that many people preferred to pour into the tank last winter. It only leaves a combat smell in the car, and it doesn't clean the glass well...
Well, that's probably it. If you follow at least some of these recommendations, your car will perform better this winter. And you along with him.