Tips for car operation (Mazda Capella GC)

Car durability

A car's longevity depends largely on your driving style, so let's discuss how we drive and how we shouldn't drive, if, of course, you want to save both your car and your money.

When driving to work or on a business trip, try to count how many times you have to use the clutch, gearbox and brakes. After all, while the car is in good working order, it rarely occurs to anyone to pay attention to how certain controls are used. Of course, changing, say, prematurely worn brake pads is not difficult. But replacing brake drums or discs will require some effort. And it is not at all easy to deal with worn clutch or gearbox parts.

Of course, nothing in a car lasts forever. But if, say, you use the clutch excessively while maneuvering in heavy city traffic, and don't lift your foot off the pedal even when stopped at a traffic light, the clutch disc will obviously not last the full 80,000 km. Replacing it prematurely won't save the situation: the next step is premature failure of the clutch pressure plate and the release bearing, which simply "dries out" and breaks the pressure plate due to reckless transmission operation.

The same can be said about the gearbox. The most "patient" of the domestic transmissions is the "Zhiguli" gearbox, capable of "driving" 150,000 and 200,000 km without repairs; audi transmissions are somewhat more durable. However, reckless operation of the transmission, accompanied by jerking the lever from one position to another, will wear out the synchronizers long before their time. And although this is not the most difficult, it is still a repair. Therefore, patient drivers, when changing gears, use the "three count" technique, that is, they say to themselves "one, two, three" when moving the lever from one position to another.



However, "sportsmen" who prefer to quickly "get going right away" have to pay not only with failing steering and prematurely worn tires. This driving style places enormous stress on the drive components – constant velocity joints, bearings, clutch disc, not to mention the engine. There is no doubt that modern cars equipped with powerful engines can drive like sports cars for some time. But they are not intended for "sports" loads, unless, of course, we are talking about a "one-off" car.

What should you do if you find yourself needing to rev the engine while driving on a muddy road or getting stuck in sand or ice? Experienced drivers know what to do in such situations: they create conditions for the car that improve its off-road capability. It is enough to reduce the pressure in the tires of the drive wheels to one atmosphere to significantly improve the traction of the wheels on the surface of the dirt road. And in a front-wheel drive vehicle, which has superior cross-country ability to a classic vehicle, difficult sections of dirt roads are overcome by moving in reverse.

Preparing your car for winter

You don't have to follow all the tips and recommendations below on your own. If you don't want to mess around, there are service stations and professional technicians. But you have to understand what exactly needs to be done to the car, clearly explain it to the mechanic, and sometimes even make sure everything is done properly.

Tires

You can't walk on snow and ice in sandals – your car needs to be changed for winter too. Much has been written about winter tires, so we will briefly recall only the main points.



Tires marked with the following markings are intended for winter use: "M+S" ("Mud+ Snow" means mud+snow), "W" ("Winter", or winter). These inscriptions are sometimes accompanied by pictograms in the form of a snowflake or cloud.

It's best to choose tires that are slightly narrower than those you use in the summer, but within the acceptable size range for your car. The tread must be able to push through the snow and mud slush to the hard surface; narrow tires cope with this task better.

In winter, it is not advisable to use all-season tires - those marked with indexes "AS" ("All Seasons" - all seasons) or "AW" ("Any Weather" – any weather).

their "winter" capabilities are weak; they can be considered all-season in the full sense of the word only if we are talking about Europe with little snow, and not about Russia.

Studded tires grip ice and snow better than non-studded tires. But on clean asphalt, when braking with studded tires, the likelihood of wheel lockup, skidding, and braking distance increases: steel studs glide well on asphalt. Another danger is that drivers blindly trust the studs and, when braking on asphalt, expect them to have the same dead grip as on ice. By the way, new generation non-studded winter tires perform just as well on slippery surfaces as studded ones.

Some drivers install studded tires only on the drive wheels in winter. And the slaves are left with... summer ones. Don't do that, it's dangerous. On a slippery road, the likelihood of a non-studded pair of wheels slipping is very high, even in relatively harmless situations – the coefficients of adhesion and lateral resistance differ too greatly.

Engine

The main problem in winter is starting a cold engine. It most often occurs with carburetor engines, but in severe frost, the owner of a car with an engine equipped with an injection system can also encounter it. The reasons are known: thickened oil, decreased battery capacity and poor gasoline evaporation. We'll look at oils and batteries separately, but for now, a few words about the experience of countries with cold climates, where pre-start electric heaters, a sort of "boiler" in the engine cooling system, are widely used. You drive up to your home or office, plug it in, and turn on the timer... By the time you need it, the engine will be warmed up, and some heater designs also provide interior heating.

Electric heating devices have been available on the Russian market for several years now. The most popular are Finnish heaters, which can be equipped with timers.

The main disadvantage of electric heating is that you need a special panel with a socket at home or office. The solution is an autonomous liquid fuel heater, which is also integrated into the engine cooling system and operates on the principle of a hot water boiler. The fuel for it is gasoline or diesel fuel, depending on what your car's engine runs on.

Another benefit of heating systems is that their use increases the engine's service life. Each cold start at -20°C is equivalent to a mileage of 800 km. Incidentally, according to modern thinking, the engine will reach operating temperature faster and wear less if, after starting, the car is driven as quickly as possible, avoiding, of course, excessive load on the engine.

Oil

Oil changes are usually made based on the vehicle's mileage, not the season. The vast majority of modern motor oils are, to one degree or another, all-season. It is believed that you need to fill in what the manufacturer prescribes in the vehicle's operating instructions. But winters can be different – warm and slushy, and frosty. And it is completely unclear whether the manufacturer intended that its car would be used in Russian winter conditions and that it would require "colder" oil.

If you decide to deviate from the instructions, when choosing oil, you can use a simple technique to determine its temperature suitability – just to be on the safe side. Let's call this technique the "rule of 35".

Motor oil labeling should include its viscosity grade on the SAE scale. For example: 15W-40. This means that this oil meets the viscosity requirements of a 15W winter oil at subzero temperatures, and the viscosity requirements of a 40 summer oil at above-zero temperatures.

Remember the number "35." If you subtract the "winter" viscosity grade index (in our example, it's "15") from it, you get a value called the maximum pumping temperature, or the temperature at which the oil still remains fluid: 35 – 15 = 20. This means that 15W-40 oil can be used at temperatures down to –20°C.

Accordingly, the lower the "winter" viscosity grade index, the "colder" the oil: 10W – up to –25°C; 5W – up to –30°C.

This is the "rule of 35" - simple and useful.

Battery

The frost has hit, and the battery, which just yesterday was vigorously turning the starter, flatly refuses to do so. No surprise: when was the last time you charged it?



If the battery is relatively "young" (up to 3–4 years), then before winter it is enough to wash it from the outside, clean the terminals and fully charge it (if the car was constantly used in the city, the battery charge is probably far from the nominal). If your battery is old and won't charge to its full capacity, replace it without hesitation. Otherwise, it will fail you in winter—its capacity already drops significantly with lower temperatures, and now you'll also have increased power consumption: the heater, heated seats, lights, windshield wipers, rear window defroster...

Experts estimate that the average "full life" of a battery is about 12 months, after which it gradually begins to deteriorate. And according to retailers, starter battery sales peak in the fall.

The days when car owners would run off their feet searching for a new battery are long gone: the variety of brands and models on store shelves is overwhelming. Which one to choose is a personal matter. Let us just note that there are two price groups on the market now: batteries costing over $60 (usually up to $100), for example Bosch, Steco, American, Fiamm, and batteries priced below $60 (Mutlu, Inci, Centra, SAEM, etc.).

The higher prices of batteries of the first group are determined by the more advanced technology of their production. These batteries are generally classified as maintenance-free. Special types of electrolytes and the sealed design of these batteries increase their service life and provide high starting currents, ensuring that the engine crankshaft rotates even in severe frost. Leading manufacturers now routinely use plate packaging technology, which helps prevent short-circuiting of the battery in the event of plate failure.



Cheaper batteries require periodic maintenance - checking the density of the electrolyte and measuring its level.

Often, when buying a new battery, people try to choose a larger capacity, just so that the battery fits into the space allocated for it. But capacity is not the main thing. Much more important is the starting current provided by the battery. After all, even a high-capacity battery has this indicator (due to high intrinsic resistance) may be lower than that of a battery with a lower capacity. In addition, a high-capacity battery requires a higher charging current than your car's alternator can provide, and the battery will discharge more and more as it is used, which will have a detrimental effect on its service life.

When purchasing a battery other than the standard one, pay attention to the location of its terminals: some batteries have "reverse polarity," and your car's wires may not be able to reach the terminals.

Ignition system

Before winter comes, don't forget about high-voltage wires. After a couple of years of driving on our "salty" roads, it is advisable to replace them, preferably with wires with a silicone sheath, which are less sensitive to temperature changes. In addition, they do not form frost, which is often the cause of the lack of spark. A common cause of problems with the ignition system could be corrosion or poorly tightened battery terminals.

A separate note about spark plugs. They are typically changed every 15,000–20,000 km, or once every eighteen months (some state-of-the-art spark plugs can last 100,000 km or more). Save on candles (anneal, clean and adjust gaps) no need. Replace your spark plugs at least once a year—it's inexpensive. Install new spark plugs before winter.

Power supply system

Often the fuel system is the cause of unsatisfactory engine performance in winter. And all because of the water condensation accumulated in the fuel tank. If the tank has a drain plug, you can simply drain the water; if not, then "neutralize" it by using so-called moisture displacers. Almost all leading manufacturers of automotive chemicals (STP, Loctite, Wynns, Aspokem) they offer similar preparations: poured into the fuel tank, they gradually clean the fuel system.

It wouldn't hurt to install a new fine fuel filter and make sure the injectors are clean.

Body

Winter is not the best season for a car, especially when driving on streets heavily salted. It is during this period that the body is most susceptible to corrosion, so its anti-corrosion treatment is highly desirable. However, according to the staff of some authorized service stations, for a number of new foreign cars, especially those with galvanized bodies, factory treatment is quite sufficient.

Anti-corrosion treatment requires strict adherence to technology, and although almost all manufacturers of protective materials produce them in packaging for household use, it is still preferable to carry out the treatment in a specialized service center. It's worth it in advance

find out what technology it is being implemented by. In any case, before applying the protective coating to the underbody and arches, the car must be cleaned of dirt, washed and thoroughly dried.

Winter is also a difficult test for the paintwork of a car body. Sudden temperature changes, snow mixed with salt, and ice crust – all this leads to the appearance of microcracks in the paint. The car body surface can be protected with special low-temperature-safe compounds, such as Plus Teflon or Color Magic. These compounds should be applied approximately once a month after the car has been washed and dried.

The question of where to keep your car in winter is usually not an issue: those who have a garage keep it in the garage, those who don't keep it outside. Oddly enough, from the point of view of

preservation of the body (from corrosion, not from theft) between trips and overnight, it's best to leave your car outside—when the body is cold, the corrosion process slows down. In a cold garage, the heat generated by the car is enough to warm it up a little, and the melted snow and salt actively do their dirty work for a while. But in a warm garage, even if you thoroughly washed the salt from underneath the car, it will remain wet all night...

Glass

Visibility is not only comfort, but also safety. Therefore, it hardly needs reminding that the windshield wipers, blowers and heated glass must be in good working order. Throw away brushes that leave matte streaks on the glass. When buying new ones, try to choose branded ones – Bosch, ITE, Champion, etc. Residents of northern regions can try heated wiper blades that connect to the vehicle's electrical system; they appeared on sale not so long ago.

Now directly about the glass. It is better to entrust their inspection to a specialist, but personal supervision will not hurt either. Even a small chip on the windshield will turn into a full-fledged crack in the first frost after the autumn rain. Existing repair technologies make it possible to eliminate such a defect without removing the glass. It's easier and cheaper than replacing the glass.

Another "winter" problem is fogging of the windows. If the ventilation system is working properly, this rarely happens, but... Using anti-fog liquids, such as Anti-Fog or Never Fog, helps. Applying them to the glass once a week is enough.

Operating materials

All consumables, including antifreeze and hydraulic fluids in brake and clutch drives, have their own service life. If you have even the slightest doubt, do not take a portion of the antifreeze that has turned brown or green from age from the radiator and put it in the freezer for testing. Replace antifreeze. And don't save money by buying dubious drugs without labels and certificates – it will cost you more.

You should be equally careful when choosing antifreeze windshield washer fluids. This is in the countryside at -20°C with dry and clean snow under the wheels. And in Moscow, even in severe frost, there is a dirty, greasy liquid that the wipers readily smear across the glass, turning it into an opaque whitish film. Therefore, a sufficient supply of fluid in the windshield washer reservoir is a prerequisite for safe driving. But when buying a fluid with a freezing point of -20°C, don't be fooled into diluting it, even if it's -10°C outside. Experience shows that while driving, fluids with a freezing point of -40°C freeze on the windshield even in ten-degree frost, if the windshield is not heated (on the issue of the serviceability of the ventilation and heating system).

Antifreeze windshield washer fluids typically contain additives that effectively remove dirt and clean the glass. Some of them, however, foam excessively, but they are much better than the cheap vodka that some people prefer to pour into the tank.

Tire operation

Tires on any vehicle wear unevenly and unevenly. This is due to its design (for example, the leading and controlled ones are loaded more), technical condition of the suspension (silent blocks, springs, shock absorbers) and other reasons.

To ensure that tires (including the spare) wear evenly and uniformly during use, manufacturers recommend rotating tires at every maintenance service, i.e., every 10,000–15,000 km. However, every tire, when placed in a new place, first undergoes a break-in period, and this does not always happen without consequences. Let's say her outdoor paths are better preserved. Taking the place of the one where the same tracks are more worn out, it will quickly wear out its own, since they will initially be loaded more heavily than the worn internal ones. Such a run-in of tires "eats up" the greater part of the resource (walking), the worse the technical condition of the car, primarily the suspension. In addition, after a chassis repair or wheel alignment, the wear pattern of the remaining tire will indicate whether anything has changed.

Taking all this into account, experienced car owners change tires every 25–30 thousand kilometers, i.e., once or twice before they fail. In this case, replace (and buy) you don't have to buy the whole set of tires at once, which suits many people.

Recommended tire pressure

The recommended tire pressure is indicated on a sticker located on the inside of the fuel filler door. The pressure in tires 155/80 R13, 175/70 R13 and 185/60 R14 should be 2.1 kg/s.

The car won't start

Your technical equipment must be impeccable - after all, the time you have is the same money that we hope you also have. Don't lose either one. If a missing tie or a burnt trouser leg can ruin a business meeting, what can we say about a car that won't start an hour before the scheduled meeting?.

Early in the morning, freshly shaved and full of great plans, you jump into the car, turn the key, and... What the hell?! One more time. One more... Nervous fiddling with the key in the ignition and the pedals brings no success. The day is ruined from the very beginning. Plans and mood - down the drain.

Calm down. There is no need to rush under the hood in an English suit and, smearing dirt with a tie, try to make a diagnosis. You most likely won't be able to cure it in five minutes. Take another car and leave treating your sick friend until the evening. And it's better to entrust it to "doctors" with a good reputation, especially if you are not a specialist. It will be cheaper this way. Well, if your friend is well known to you and you consider yourself a healer, well, try it yourself if you don't mind getting dirty or have no other choice.

You need to approach the diagnosis calmly: mentally study the symptoms. First, does the starter turn over? If so, how vigorously? You already know the answer—remember what happened the first time you tried to start the car. If you don't remember, try again.

If the starter does not turn at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the advice given above: "Take another car…"), or the electrical power circuit of the starter is faulty (the battery is disconnected or dead). Only on rare models can the starter power circuit be protected by a fuse. It's not hard to find, especially if you know where it is in advance. If the battery is at fault, then, as a rule, all electrical equipment, except for the starter, does not work. The simplest and easiest case is when one of the terminals has come off, become dirty, or oxidized, but the battery is fine. Tighten the terminal fasteners on it and on the starter (if any). If it turns out that the battery is completely dead (forgot to turn off the parking lights at night), it is still possible to leave, but with outside help. Here, as they say, there are options. You can try to start it by pushing it, driving it uphill, or towing it. However, don't be fooled: a car with an automatic transmission or electronic fuel injection (if there is an electric fuel pump) it won't be possible to start it using these methods. You'll have to jump-start your neighbor's car. However, in some cars, this could damage the "computer" — the central unit of the electronic engine management system (read the car manual). If the starter turns, but sluggishly (this happens in the summer, winter is a subject for a separate discussion), most likely, the battery is almost completely discharged. This will be visible by the dim light of the headlights or the sound of the horn. In this case, the above-mentioned options for outside assistance come into play.

If the starter turns vigorously, but the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, you can safely exclude anything related to the battery from further consideration. Check the ignition or fuel supply system, you won't go wrong. When determining the diagnosis and treatment of the "disease" of each of the systems, a systemic approach is necessary. It's best to start with the ignition – problems with this system are more common, especially in damp weather.

So, you need to "look for the spark." Your car is equipped with an electronic contactless ignition system, which can be integrated into the engine's electronic control system. In any case, the ignition system consists of three parts. Part One - Low Voltage (a special sensor plus a box with electronic components that generates a spark). Part two is a step-up transformer, commonly known as an ignition coil. Part three - high voltage (a mechanical or electronic ignition distributor and high-voltage wires of the ignition system, through which high-voltage current is supplied to the spark plugs). And, of course, the candles themselves. The inspection of this entire system must be carried out in stages and it is better to start "from the end".

Stage one. High voltage part of the system. Check if there is a spark on the center wire - this is the one that connects the ignition coil to the distributor. The wire tip must be removed from the distributor cap and brought close to any part that has good contact with the ground (body) of the vehicle (whether it is painted or not does not matter), and secure it so that there's a 5-7 mm gap between the tip and the selected part. The wire must be secured especially securely: if it falls onto the ground, the electronics will instantly fail. For the same reason, don't let the wire brush against the housing. We also don't recommend holding it with your hand, not even your own – it will give you a serious electric shock.

Stage two. Turn the engine over with the starter. At the same time, watch what happens at the tip of the wire. There are two possible options. More favorable - there is a spark. Powerful, accompanied by a loud click. This significantly narrows the field of further searches.

The first thing you need to do is remove the distributor cap. It may be damp and dirty underneath. Through such a "conductor" the spark readily jumps anywhere, but not where it should.

Wipe, clean and dry. At the same time, it would be a good idea to clean the distributor contacts, for example, with fine sandpaper. Inspect the so-called "runner." If you find a dark trace of electrical breakdown on it or on the distributor cap, the part will need to be replaced. Check the wires running from the distributor to the spark plugs very carefully. The wires and their tips must be dry and clean. If you think everything is OK with them, you can put the cover back in place, restore the connections and try to start the engine. If the problem was hidden under the cover, the engine will start or, in the worst case, will at least start to sneeze. This symptom is also favorable – you are on the right track. True, you will have to unscrew, clean and dry the spark plugs: in your attempts to start the engine, you flooded them with gasoline. Even if the engine doesn't sneeze, the spark plugs will still have to be removed, cleaned and checked. It's easier if you have a spare set.

If you have already reached the stage of removing candles, you can do it quite effectively (and spectacular) check the ignition system as a whole. After connecting the high-voltage wires of the ignition system to the removed spark plugs, gather the spark plugs into a bundle, like carrots, and wrap it around the threaded part of the spark plugs with soft, bare wire. Make sure the wire makes contact with each spark plug, but does not touch the center electrodes. Connect the free end of the wire to ground. Position the spark plug cluster in a location easily visible from the cabin and crank the engine with the starter. Between the spark plug electrodes in turn (in accordance with the order of cylinder operation) there should be some cheerful sparks flying. If this is the case, then the entire ignition system is working properly. The engine will make a very unusual sound, but don't be alarmed, as it will spin with the spark plugs removed. Don't twist for too long. Worse, if the second stage of testing reveals a different scenario: there's no spark between the center wire and ground. This means the problem isn't in the high-voltage circuits. Further searches will be more difficult, evaluate your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third step.

Stage three. Check if voltage is supplied to the ignition coil. This can be easily done with a tester, and if you don't have one, you can use an underhood lamp. True, you will need a couple of wires to connect it to the coil. The light bulb must be connected between the ground and the input of the primary winding.

In the third stage, as usual, two options are also possible: voltage is either supplied to the coil or it isn't. If it is, the coil is at fault—either a breakdown or a short circuit, which, however, is extremely rare. The coil will have to be replaced. Most often, there is poor contact between the wires and the coil. Or the same wet mud, through which the spark flows away to who knows where. Sometimes the coil is polished to a shine, but underneath there remains an invisible, very narrow strip of dirt - a good conductor.

If in the third step you have confirmed that there is no voltage being supplied to the coil, the fault lies with the electronics or contacts and unreliable connections in the low-voltage part of the ignition system. With electronics (switch and, less commonly, a sensor in the distributor housing) you won't be able to handle them - you need special equipment to diagnose them. The only thing you can do is tug on the sensor connector on the distributor housing – maybe it will help. The voltage on the connector contacts is only 12 V, so you can pull it without fear. If tension appears (when you pull the contacts, the light blinks), restore everything that was unscrewed and disassembled, start the car and maybe you will still have time to get on with your business. If the engine does not start, but at least sneezes, remove the spark plugs and... (see above).

It may also happen that the entire ignition system has been checked and is in order, but the engine, no matter how hard you try, still won't start. This means there are problems with another of the previously mentioned systems – the fuel supply system, that is, the supply of fuel to the engine.

If you have a car with injection (fuel injection system), don't touch it (the system). You can only conclude that it's the faulty system: there's a spark, the fuel is flowing—that means it's the faulty system. Treatment is hospitalized only. Repairing it at home or by artisans is useless and even harmful.

We have left the rarest, but most unpleasant diagnosis for last. If the starter is working properly, and you've already spent a lot of time making sure that the ignition and power supply are in perfect order, but the car still won't start, it's worth inspecting the camshaft drive belt. However, it's up to you to decide: this check can be performed initially, especially if the engine has traveled more than 60,000 km. The difficulty is that you'll have to remove or at least partially bend the upper part of the plastic or metal cover that covers the belt. The teeth on the belt may be cut off (belts, like people, lose teeth due to old age). In this case, the camshaft does not rotate and the engine will not run. It is clear that the toothless belt needs to be replaced. The procedure for replacing the belt is not complicated, but it is quite troublesome. It is carried out in a hospital. It would be good if it was just a matter of replacing one belt, rather than bent valves or the entire cylinder head – that happens too.

Clogged fuel system (on the causes of "atherosclerosis")

Let's try to explain why a car's circulatory system is sometimes affected by "atherosclerosis." Gasoline is the lifeblood of a car. And the blood must be clean and flow through clean vessels. And, as a rule, we ourselves are to blame for the fact that cholesterol accumulates in our blood vessels beyond the permissible limit. Do you often use a gas can to top off your gas tank? If so, the chances of clogging the fuel line and filters increase, especially if your funnel doesn't have a strainer. The canister usually accumulates debris, rust, sand, and if the canister is painted inside, then paint particles. It is clear that the less intermediate containers are used on the way of gasoline from the pump to the tank, the better. Oddly enough, even at the most run-down gas station, the dirt in the tanks is lower in percentage terms than in a "home" gas can. The scourge of our gas stations isn't so much dirt as water. But here we are powerless. However, to avoid adding water to domestically produced diluted gasoline, try to always keep the tank full. Condensation accumulates in an incomplete tank, especially during the off-season when sudden temperature changes occur.

It is worth saying a few words about the battery. Since it is maintenance-free on most modern cars, there is no point in providing operating instructions here. We'll give you just a few additional tips on how to keep your battery healthy for longer. Don't get carried away with stuffing your car with additional energy consumers. The fact that the car's energy balance has a certain reserve, allowing two or three "freeloaders" to be connected, does not mean that you can hang six horns and ten fog lights on the car - have a sense of proportion. Moreover, if you connect unintended consumers yourself, there is a high probability of damaging the insulation. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most skilled intervention in the vehicle's electrical wiring, sooner or later results in trouble.

If your battery is on its last legs, try not to turn off the engine during countless stops in the city. Nothing drains a battery faster than using the starter too often.

And finally (this applies not only to the battery, but to all electrical equipment of the car), remember: all terminals, contacts, and wire ends must be dry and clean, tightly sealed to their intended locations. Dirty, oily insulation will eventually break down, and burning and oxidation of any contact surface can be the only way to (and sufficient) cause of ignition system failure or fire.

We can stop here. Meticulous car enthusiasts have undoubtedly noticed the somewhat superficial nature of our advice. We admit, we deliberately don't want to delve into the details, so as not to provoke you into self-medication – it doesn't lead to anything good. Understanding the nature of pain in the lower right abdomen does not mean that you should remove your appendix yourself. But you must describe the symptoms of appendicitis to the doctor accurately. It helps with treatment a lot.

Visiting a service station (car service)

They say that abroad, a damaged car is abandoned on the road and a fully repaired one is received at the doorstep of your own home. The insurance company handles the car and pays for the work; the owner often doesn't even know which service center did the repairs or who did them.

Someday it will be the same for us, but in most cases (especially if the repair is not entrusted to a branded station) our owner, when contacting a car repair shop, is forced to enter into long-term and sometimes complex relationships with its mechanics and service technicians. In relationships on which, as we know, the quality of repairs and their price often depend. It is no secret that the same master performs the same work with completely different quality. And this isn't a matter of ill will or the mood of the performer, but rather the fact that in our far from comfortable conditions, car repair often becomes a creative task, the result of which, among other things, depends heavily on the desire of the person who will perform it and the impression the customer makes on them. There is even an unspoken rule: what is the client, such is the work. And although the client is always right, his rightness has a different impact on the outcome. What kind of people are we? And how should we behave so as not to end up at a loss in every sense?

A view from the auto repair shop

Workshop employees characterize their most typical clients and express their attitudes toward them in different ways. The general picture looks like this.

The client is a "dandy." He arrives in a car decked out in various gadgets and gizmos: extra headlights, brake lights, spoilers, active antennas, etc. It seems as if the main components of his car are not the engine and transmission, but a stereo system with speakers. Masters don't like such clients. As a rule, they are unable to appreciate all the work that went into repairing the object of their desire, but are ready to find fault with a trivial scratch that supposedly was not there before.

The complete opposite of dandies are "workers." These are people for whom a car isn't just a means of transportation, but a means of existence. These people mainly turn to the services of a service to perform those jobs that they cannot do themselves due to a lack of special tools or capabilities. They don't pay attention to minor defects, but they are quite capable of causing a real scandal if it turns out that, say, white sealant was used to seal the cylinder head cover instead of the red high-temperature one.

"Rationalizers." Their cars are equipped with additional filters, electronic correctors, fuel magnetizers, electrical body corrosion protection systems, and sophisticated spark plugs. When they visit a service center with a knocking engine requiring a major overhaul, these customers are genuinely surprised to discover that, despite all the aspect-modifying agents they've been diligently adding to the engine, an oil change was still necessary. Masters don't respect such people.

Repairing cars for "riders" who are used to just driving them is very labor-intensive. Treating a visit to the auto repair shop like a visit to the dentist (go when the going gets tough), they progress minor illnesses to such an extent that it is easier to throw away the car than to treat it completely. On such vehicles, it's easier to cut the nuts off with a grinder rather than just unscrew them. These people are interested to learn that a torn CV joint boot requires replacing the entire unit within a month. In early spring, carefree "snowdrops" — a variation of the same "riders" — appear in workshops. Their eyes silently ask, "Why was the car running so well last fall, but now it creaks like an unlubricated cart, the gears won't shift, and the engine is hard to start?" They fail to understand that without preserving the car, many components of its suspension, engine, and even the body itself will deteriorate more from prolonged parking in the snow than from daily driving.

Female drivers are a special category. Their cars typically have regular maintenance, clean engines, and well-maintained vehicles. It is difficult for women to assess the real danger of any creaking or knocking noise, and they turn to repair shops for any reason. Sometimes for trifles like replacing a blown fuse. Their cars don't give mechanics much trouble, but the mechanics look down on them.

In general, as you might guess, car service workers treat almost all clients (in my soul for sure!) arrogantly and dismissively condescendingly. And not only here. This is apparently explained by the psychology of perception: "They ride, and we pull their sleds for them." There's even a saying: "The driver is just a gasket between the steering wheel and the seat, the one that needs to be replaced first." Rich and not so rich, "newbies" and "know-it-alls," hot-tempered as gunpowder and calm as tanks—we are all beyond the love and deep respect of those who tighten our screws. So who, if not loved, then at least respected by mechanics, who performs the highest quality and most diligent repairs? Based on our observations, mechanics build the most successful relationships with those who understand the specifics of car repair and have at least a general idea of what needs to be done and how. While such a person isn't necessarily a master of "screws," their knowledge and understanding are sufficient to understand why something had to be done, what prompted the deviation from the rules and accepted canon, and, most importantly, they're not easily fooled. They can always forgive a mistake or oversight, but are capable of exacting strict penalties for botched work. He always knows what he wants and knows how to achieve it.

Well, if there are no such skills, then there is no desire (strength, time) should you delve into the specifics of repairs, believing that the car was purchased for the wrong purpose? Then you should choose a reputable auto repair shop where quality is guaranteed by its strong reputation and strict management oversight. But that's not what we're talking about now. What to do? The tips below will help you avoid common mistakes that affect the quality of work and its price.

You need to prepare for a visit to a car service center. Wash the car. Especially in areas where renovations are planned. Remove all unnecessary things from it. Turn off the alarm and unscrew the lock nuts, placing them in a visible place. Cover the seats with old covers, a clean cloth or plastic. Some people leave a bottle of mineral water in a visible place. By doing this you show respect to the people who will be working on your car. Try to make future work easier in every possible way. If the car has additional electrical equipment (electric windows, ignition system accessories, etc.), please leave the diagrams or warn about their presence.

Be prepared to clearly describe the damage that needs to be repaired, and ask to check the operation of those components that need to be repaired in your presence. Do not diagnose yourself and especially do not give categorical recommendations. If you, for example, say "tighten the chain" after hearing that it is making noise, they will simply tighten it for you. And after a few days, the damper will be destroyed and, for example, the entire cylinder head will fail. Ask the mechanic to listen to the engine himself (look at the suspension) and decide together which parts must be replaced and which ones must be repaired. Agree here on the list of replaceable elements and specify who will purchase them. If the service takes responsibility for quality (particularly complex) parts, it is better to entrust their procurement to him, even if this slightly increases the cost of the repair. When purchasing parts yourself, choose the best of what is available. Don't skimp on small items - nuts, pins, covers, rubber bands, and generally all disposable parts. Replacing them not only improves the quality of repairs, but also significantly simplifies them, and at the same time lifts the spirits of those who are actually doing the repairs. If you have no idea how to fix a particular problem, take the time to open the instructions or repair manual and at least get a general idea of the problem. This will give you credibility in the eyes of the mechanic, will make him work more carefully, and will allow you to control the progress of the work. If possible and desired, be present during the repairs or at least regularly inquire about their progress. In the process of work, many small questions arise: to do or not to do, to change or not to change. It is better if they are resolved immediately. Moreover, defects are revealed that will be very difficult to fix later, but are currently possible. For example, when replacing a fender or rear panel, an unsightly picture of corrosion of the surrounding components is revealed (for cars that have previously undergone body repairs), it can be easily eliminated as you go, but it needs to be agreed upon with the customer, as it requires additional costs on his part. Observe the work unobtrusively, do not stand over the shoulder. Finding and fixing many "individual" problems is a matter of trial and error, and no one wants anyone to see that they are making a mistake. At the same time, be ready to answer any questions that arise or explain something to the master. He knows the car in general, and you know the behavior and background of this particular instance. Besides, only you know what kind of oil is in the engine and what kind of polish was used to treat the body.

Try to control the quality of work step by step. A minor body defect that was not specified in the initial estimate is much easier to fix before priming than after painting.

Discuss the warranty period and the procedure for filing claims immediately. There are especially many questions about the quality of painting. For example, GOST allows for this type of work to have a light shagreen and the presence of small dirt particles, but does not allow paint drips. Our advice is not to demand a very smooth surface. It can be easily achieved by applying a thin layer of paint. Moreover, in this case, there will be no drips, whereas light shagreen, indicating a thick layer, can be polished out, and the presence of a small drip, even in an inconspicuous place, will significantly reduce the cost of the work.

Nothing lasts forever, but you probably wouldn't be happy if, say, the paint started peeling off right after the warranty period you were given expired. It would be better if you buy it yourself (after consulting with those who will be working with them) consumables and some specific tools that may not be available in an average workshop. For example, if silicone polish has ever been used on your car, purchase a special product to remove it. Some polishes containing Teflon cannot be removed with anything, and it is necessary to remove all the paint with a special remover. Purchase only the best quality anti-corrosion primers, preferably two-component epoxy primers, which are known to pass the salt spray test satisfactorily.

When you visit the workshop for the first time, remember that your visit here will most likely not be your last. So make sure your next repair is delivered

reduce the inconvenience for mechanics: ask the mechanic to treat threads and other connections with silicone grease before final assembly. It, like the universal penetrating liquid (like WD-40), it's best to always have it in your trunk.

Don't haggle after you've been given the final price, but before that, ask for a detailed estimate for individual types of work. This is something that makes sense to discuss in more detail in order to eliminate double payment for the same work. For example, if the brake pads and brake cylinder need to be replaced, the prices for these jobs cannot be automatically summed up, since replacing the cylinder requires removing the wheel and, for example, the brake drum.

And the last thing. Don't try to give the technician a tip, let alone a bottle of vodka, as a thank you. This was the custom when his salary was 5-6% of what you paid into the cash register. Today, his earnings, including bonuses and other payments, amount to more than half of the amount you paid. Find other ways to show him your respect and appreciation. For example, give some kind of souvenir or something like that.