Vehicle durability
The durability of a car depends a lot on driving style, so we will discuss how we drive and how we should not drive, if, of course, there is a desire to save both a car and money.
When driving to work or on a business trip, try to count how many times you have to use the clutch, gearbox and brakes. After all, while the car is in order, it rarely occurs to anyone to pay attention to how certain controls are used. Of course, it is not difficult to change, say, worn-out brake pads before the time. But with the replacement of brake drums or discs will have to tinker. And it’s not at all easy to deal with worn parts of the clutch or gearbox.
Nothing, of course, lasts forever in a car. But if, for example, you use the clutch unreasonably often, maneuvering in dense city traffic, and do not take your foot off the pedal, even while standing at a traffic light, the clutch disc will, of course, not serve the prescribed 80,000 km of run. Its early replacement of the situation will not save: the next step is the premature failure of the plates «baskets» clutch and clutch release bearing, which from the thoughtless operation of the transmission simply «dries up» and breaks through «basket»...
The same can be said about the gearbox. The most «patient» from domestic «Zhiguli» gearbox is capable «leave» and 150, and 200 thousand km without repair; Audi gearboxes are somewhat more capable of serving. But the dashing control of the box, accompanied by jerks of the lever from one position to another, disables the synchronizers long before the deadline. And this, though not the most difficult, but the repair. Therefore, patient drivers, when shifting gears, use the technique «for three accounts», that is, as if talking about themselves «one two Three» when moving the lever from one position to another.
However, «athletes», who prefer brisk «take right off the bat», you have to pay not only for failing steering and prematurely worn tires. With this style of driving, a huge load falls on the drive parts - constant velocity joints, bearings, clutch disc, not to mention the engine. No doubt, modern cars equipped with powerful engines can drive like sports cars for some time. But for «sports» loads they are not intended, unless, of course, we are talking about «one-time» car.
What to do if the need arises «tear» engine, getting out on a muddy road or skidding in the sand or on ice? Experienced drivers know what to do in such cases: they create conditions for the car that increase its cross-country ability. It is enough to reduce the pressure in the tires of the driving wheels to one atmosphere in order to significantly improve the adhesion of the wheels to the surface of a dirt road. And on a front-wheel drive car, which is superior in cross-country ability to a car of a classic layout, difficult sections of dirt roads are overcome by moving in reverse.
Preparing your car for winter
All the tips and recommendations below do not have to be done on your own. If there is no desire to mess around, there are service stations and professional masters. But you have to imagine what exactly needs to be done with the car, clearly explain it to the master, and sometimes make sure that everything is done properly.
Tires
They don’t walk on snow and ice in sandals - the car also needs to be changed for the winter. A lot has been written about winter tires, so we will briefly recall only the main points.
Tires marked for winter use are: «M+S» («Mud+ Snow» means mud + snow), «W» («Winter», or winter). These inscriptions are sometimes accompanied by pictograms in the form of a snowflake or a cloud.
It is better to choose tires a little narrower than the ones you use in the summer - naturally, within the size range allowed for your car. The tread should push through the snow and mud porridge to a hard surface, narrow tires cope with this task better.
In winter, it is undesirable to use all-season tires - those that are marked with indices «AS» («All Seasons» - all Seasons) or «AW» («Any Weather» - any weather).
«Winter» their opportunities are weak; they can be considered all-season in the full sense of the word only if we are talking about Europe with little snow, and not about Russia.
Studded tires grip better on ice and snow than non-studded tires. But on clean pavement, when braking on spikes, the likelihood of wheel blocking, skidding and stopping distance increases: steel spikes glide well on asphalt. The danger also lies in the fact that drivers blindly believe in spikes and, braking on asphalt, expect the same stranglehold from them as on ice. By the way, non-studded winter tires of new generations on a slippery surface behave no worse than studded ones.
Some drivers in winter put studded tires only on the drive wheels. And on the followers they leave... summer. Don't do it, it's dangerous. On a slippery road, the probability of demolition of a non-studded pair of wheels is very high even in relatively harmless situations - the coefficients of adhesion and slip resistance differ too much.
Engine
The main problem in winter is starting a cold engine. More often it occurs in relation to carburetor engines, but in severe frost, the owner of a car with an engine equipped with an injection system may also encounter it. The reasons are known - thickened oil, a drop in battery capacity and poor evaporation of gasoline. We will consider oils and batteries separately, but for now a few words about the experience of countries with a cold climate, where pre-start electric heaters are widely used, such as «boilers» in the engine cooling system. I drove up to the house or office, plugged the plug into the socket, turned on the timer... By the right time, the engine will be warmed up, and some designs of heaters also provide interior heating.
Electric heating devices have been presented on the Russian market for several years. The most popular are Finnish heaters, which can be equipped with timers.
The main disadvantage of electric heating is that a house or office needs to have a special shield with a socket. The way out is an autonomous liquid fuel heater, which is also built into the engine cooling system and works on the principle of a hot water boiler. The fuel for it is gasoline or diesel, depending on what your car's engine is running on.
The benefit of heating systems also lies in the fact that when they are used, the engine resource increases. Each start of a cold engine at -20°C is equivalent to a run of 800 km. By the way, according to modern views, the motor will reach operating temperature faster, and its wear will be less if, after starting, you do not stand still, but start moving as quickly as possible, avoiding, of course, excessive load on the engine.
Oil
Oil changes are usually made in relation to the mileage of the car, and not to the season. The vast majority of modern motor oils are all-weather to one degree or another. It is believed that it is necessary to fill in what is prescribed by the manufacturer in the car's operating instructions. But winters are different - both warm and slushy and frosty. And it is completely unclear whether the manufacturer assumed that his car would be operated in the conditions of the Russian winter and that he would need oil «colder».
If you decide to deviate from the requirements of the instructions, when choosing an oil, you can use a simple trick to determine its temperature suitability - for safety. Let's call this trick «rule 35».
The marking of engine oil must include the designation of its viscosity class according to the SAE scale. For example: 15W-40. This means that this oil has a viscosity at «negative» temperature meets the requirements for winter oils of class 15W, and at «positive» - to class 40 summer oils.
remember the number «35». If you subtract from it «winter» viscosity index (in our example it is «15»), then you get a value called the limiting pumpability temperature, i.e. the temperature at which the oil still remains fluid: 35–15=20. This means that 15W-40 oil can be used at temperatures down to -20°C.
Accordingly, the less «winter» viscosity index, the oil «colder»: 10W - up to -25°С; 5W - up to -30°С.
That's what it is «rule 35» - simple and useful.
Accumulator battery
The frost has hit, and the battery, which had been briskly turning the starter yesterday, flatly refuses to do so. No wonder: when was the last time you charged it?
If the battery is relatively «young» (up to 3–4 years), then in anticipation of winter it is enough to wash it outside, clean the terminals and fully charge (if the car was constantly operated in the city, the battery charge is probably far from the nominal). If the battery is old and does not charge to its nominal capacity, change without hesitation, otherwise it will let you down in winter - the capacity drops so much with decreasing temperature, and then there is also increased energy consumption: heater, heated seats, light, «wipers», rear window heater...
According to experts, the average duration «full life» battery life is about 12 months, then a gradual «withering». And the peak of sales of starter batteries, according to sellers, falls just in the fall.
The times when the car owner was knocked down in search of a new battery are long gone: the variety of brands and models on store shelves dazzles the eyes. Which one to choose is a personal matter for everyone. We only note that two price groups can now be distinguished on the market: batteries costing over $60 (usually up to $100), such as Bosch, Steco, American, Fiamm, and batteries under $60 (Mutlu, Inci, Centra, SAEM, etc.).
The higher prices of batteries of the first group are determined by the more advanced technology of their production. These batteries are generally categorized as maintenance free. Special types of electrolytes and hermetic design of such batteries increase their resource and provide high starter currents, which guarantee cranking of the engine crankshaft even in severe frosts. Leading manufacturers now make it mandatory to use wafer stacking technology, as a result of which it is possible to avoid a short circuit of the battery in case of their destruction.
Cheaper batteries require periodic maintenance - checking the density of the electrolyte and measuring its level.
Often, when buying a new battery, they try to choose a larger capacity, so that the battery fits into the space allotted for it. But capacity is not the point. Much more important is the starter current provided by the battery. After all, even with a high-capacity battery, this indicator (due to high resistance) may be lower than a battery with a lower capacity. In addition, a large capacity battery requires a higher charging current, which your car's alternator will not provide, and the battery will be discharged more and more during operation, which will have a deplorable effect on its life.
When buying a battery that differs from the standard one, pay attention to the location of its terminals: there are batteries «reverse polarity», to the terminals of which the wires of your car may not reach.
Ignition system
Before the onset of winter, do not forget about high-voltage wires. After a couple of years of driving on our «salty» it is advisable to replace them on roads, it is best to use wires with a silicone sheath, which are less sensitive to temperature changes. In addition, frost does not form on them, which is often the reason for the absence of a spark. A commonplace cause of malfunctions in the ignition system may be corrosion or poor tightening of the battery terminals.
Separately - about candles. Usually they are changed every 15–20 thousand km, i.e. once in a year and a half (some ultra-modern candles can withstand 100 thousand kilometers or more). save on candles (ignite, clean and adjust gaps) not worth it. Replace spark plugs at least once a year - it's inexpensive. Install new spark plugs ahead of winter.
Supply system
Often, the power system is the cause of unsatisfactory engine operation in winter. And all because of the accumulated water condensate in the fuel tank. If there is a drain plug in the tank, the water can simply be drained; if not, then «neutralize», by applying so-called moisture displacers. Almost all leading manufacturers of auto chemical goods (STP, Loctite, Wynns, Aspokem) offer similar drugs: poured into the fuel tank, they gradually clean the power system.
It will not be superfluous to install a new fine fuel filter, make sure the injectors are clean.
Body
Winter is not the best season for a car, especially when driving on streets heavily sprinkled with salt. It is during this period that the body is exposed to corrosion to the maximum, so its anti-corrosion treatment is highly desirable. However, according to employees of some authorized service stations, for a number of new foreign cars, especially with a galvanized body, factory processing is quite enough.
Anti-corrosion treatment requires strict adherence to technology, and although almost all manufacturers of protective materials produce them in packaging for domestic use, it is still preferable to carry out treatment in a specialized service center. Worth it in advance
find out what technology it uses. In any case, before applying a protective coating on the bottom and arches, the machine must be cleaned of dirt, washed and thoroughly dried.
Winter is a difficult test for body paintwork. Sudden changes in temperature, snow mixed with salt, ice crust - all this leads to the appearance of microcracks in the paint. The surface of the body can be protected with special compounds suitable for use at low temperatures, such as Plus Teflon or Color Magic. Treatment with these preparations is carried out approximately once a month after the obligatory washing of the car and drying it.
The question of where to keep the car in winter is actually usually not worth it: those who have a garage keep it in the garage, those who do not have it on the street. Oddly enough, in terms of
body safety (from corrosion, not from theft) between trips and at night it is better to leave the car on the street - with a cold body, the corrosion process is slower. In a cold garage, the heat generated by the car is enough to warm it up a little, and the melted snow and salt actively do their dirty work for some time. Well, in a warm garage, even if you thoroughly washed the car from salt from below, it will stand wet all night...
Glass
Visibility is not only comfort, but also safety. Therefore, it is hardly worth recalling that the windshield wipers, blowing and heating the windows must be in good order. Feel free to throw away brushes that leave matte streaks on the glass. And when buying new ones, try to choose branded ones - Bosch, ITE, Champion, etc. Residents of the northern regions can try heated brushes that are connected to the on-board network; they went on sale not too long ago.
Now directly about glasses. It is better to entrust their examination to a specialist, but personal control will not hurt either. Even a small chip on the windshield in the first frost after the autumn rain will turn into a full-fledged crack. Existing repair technologies make it possible to eliminate such a defect without removing the glass. It is easier and cheaper than glass replacement.
Another one «winter» The problem is the fogging of the windows. With a good ventilation system, it rarely occurs, but... It helps to use anti-fogging fluids, such as Anti-Fog or Never Fog, which are enough to be applied to the glass once a week.
Operating materials
All consumables, including antifreeze and hydraulic fluids in brake and clutch actuators, have their own service life. If even the slightest doubt arises, it is not necessary to take a portion of antifreeze that has turned brown or green with age from the radiator and put it in the freezer for testing. Replace antifreeze. And do not save money by buying dubious drugs without labels and certificates - it will cost more.
No less careful should be approached to the choice of antifreeze liquids for glass washer. This is in the countryside at -20°C under the wheels of dry and clean snow. And in Moscow, even in severe frost - a dirty greasy slurry, which the brushes willingly smear on the glass, turning it into an opaque whitish film. Therefore, the supply of fluid in the windshield washer reservoir is a prerequisite for safe driving. But when buying a liquid with a freezing point of -20°C, do not flatter yourself and do not dilute it, even if it is -10°C outside. Practice shows that on the move, liquids with a freezing point of -40°C freeze on the windshield even in ten degrees below zero, if the glass is not heated (to the question of the health of the ventilation and heating system).
Anti-freeze windshield washer fluids usually contain additives that effectively remove dirt and clean the glass. Some of them, it is true, foam too much, but they are also much better than cheap vodka, which some people prefer to pour into a tank.
Tire operation
Tires on any car wear out differently and unevenly. This is due to its design (for example, leading and controlled are loaded more), the technical condition of the suspension (silent blocks, springs, shock absorbers) and other reasons.
To tires (including «spare tire») during operation they wore out simultaneously and evenly, manufacturers recommend changing the wheels in places at each MOT, that is, after 10–15 thousand kilometers. However, each tire, getting to a new place, is first run in, and this does not always go without consequences. Let's say that her outdoor paths are better preserved. Standing in place of the one where the same tracks are more worn out, she will quickly wipe her own, since they will first be loaded more than the worn inner ones. Similar running in of tires «eats» the greater part of the resource (mileage), the worse the technical condition of the car, especially the suspension. In addition, after repairing the chassis or adjusting the wheel alignment, the wear pattern of the tire remaining in the old place will show if anything has changed here.
Considering all this, experienced motorists change tires in places after 25–30 thousand kilometers, i.e. once or twice before failure. In this case, replace (and buy) you can not immediately the whole set of tires, which suits many.
Recommended tire pressure
The recommended tire pressure is indicated on a sticker located on the inside of the fuel filler door. The pressure in tires 155/80 R13, 175/70 R13 and 185/60 R14 should be 2.1 kg/s.
Car won't start
Your technical equipment must be impeccable - after all, the time you have is the same money that we hope you also have. Don't lose either one. If a missing tie or a pant leg burned with an iron can cause a disruption in a business meeting, then what can we say about a car that does not want to start an hour before the scheduled negotiations.
Early in the morning, freshly shaved and full of great plans, you hop in the car, «key to start» and... What the hell?! One more time. More... Nervous manipulations with the key in the ignition and pedals do not bring success. The day is ruined from the start. Plans and mood «down the drain».
Take it easy. No need to rush under the hood in an English suit and, smearing dirt with a tie, try to make a diagnosis. In five minutes, most likely, you will not cure. Take another car, and leave the treatment of a sick friend until the evening. And you better entrust him «doctors» with a good reputation, especially if you are not an expert. That will be cheaper. Well, if your friend is well known to you and you consider yourself a healer - well, try it yourself, if you are not too lazy to get dirty or there is no other way out.
To determine the diagnosis, you must proceed calmly: mentally study the symptoms. First - «twists» whether the starter? If yes, how cheerful? You already know the answer - remember what happened when you first tried to start the car. If you don't remember, try again.
If the starter does not turn at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the above advice: «Get another car..»), or the starter power supply circuit is faulty (battery is dead or dead). Only on rare models can the starter power circuit be protected by a fuse. It is easy to find, especially if you know in advance where it is. If the battery is to blame, then in addition to the starter, as a rule, all electrical equipment does not work either. The simplest and easiest case is that one of the terminals has fallen off, dirty or oxidized, but the battery is in order. Tighten the terminals on it and on the starter (if there). If it turns out that the battery is completely dead (forgot to turn off the lights at night), You can still leave, but with outside help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try to start from a push, slide or tug. However, make no mistake: a car with an automatic transmission or electronic fuel injection (if there is an electric fuel pump) these methods will not work. Have to «light up» at a neighbor. However, for some machines, this can lead to damage «computer» – the central block of the electronic engine management system (read the manual for the car). If the starter turns, but sluggishly (it happens in summer, winter is a subject of a separate discussion), most likely, the battery is almost completely discharged. This will be seen by the weak headlights or the work of the sound signal. In this case, the above options for outside assistance come into play.
If the starter turns briskly, and the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, feel free to exclude everything related to the battery from further consideration. Check the ignition or fuel supply system, you can't go wrong. In diagnosing and treating «disease» each of the systems requires a systematic approach. It is best to start with the ignition - in this system, problems are more common, especially in wet weather.
So, it is necessary «look for a spark». Your machine is equipped with an electronic non-contact ignition system that can be integrated into the electronic engine management system. In any case, the ignition system consists of three parts. Part one - low voltage (a special sensor plus a box with electronic filling that forms a spark). Part two is a step-up transformer, referred to in the world as an ignition coil. Part three - high voltage (mechanical or electronic ignition distributor and high-voltage wires of the ignition system, through which high-voltage current is supplied to the candles). And, of course, the candles themselves. Checking all this economy should be carried out in stages and it is better to start «from the end».
Stage one. High voltage part of the system. Check if there is a spark on the center wire - this is the one that connects the ignition coil to the distributor. The tip of the wire must be removed from the distributor cap and brought close to any part that has good contact with «weight» (bodywork) car (whether it's painted or not doesn't matter), and fasten so that there is a gap of 5–7 mm between the tip and the selected part. It is necessary to fasten the wire especially securely: if it falls on «mass», electronics instantly «will tell you to live long». For the same reason, you can't «strike» body wire. We also do not recommend holding it with your hand, not even your own, - it will shock you great.
Stage two. Turn the engine over with the starter. At the same time, look at what happens at the tip of the wire. There are two options. More favorable - there is a spark. Powerful, accompanied by a loud click. This significantly narrows the field for further searches.
The first step is to remove the distributor cap. Under it can be damp and dirty. According to this «conductor» the spark willingly jumps anywhere, but not where it is needed.
Wipe, scrub and dry. At the same time, it is harmless to clean the contacts of the distributor, for example, with a fine sandpaper. Check out the so-called «slider». If you find a dark trace of electrical breakdown on it or on the distributor cover, the part will have to be changed. In the most biased way, check the wires coming from the distributor to the candles. Wires and their lugs must be dry and clean. If, in your opinion, everything is in order with them, you can put the cover back in place, reconnect and try to start the engine. If the fault was hidden under the cover, the engine would start, or in the worst case, at least start to sneeze. The symptom is also favorable - you are on the right track. True, you will have to turn out, clean and dry the candles: in an attempt to start the engine, you filled them with gasoline. If the engine does not even sneeze, the candles will still have to be turned out, cleaned and checked. It's easier if you have a spare set.
If you have already reached the stage of turning out the candles, you can quite effectively (and spectacular) check the ignition system as a whole. Having connected the high-voltage wires of the ignition system to the turned out candles, collect the candles in a bundle, like carrots, and wrap it around the threaded part of the candles with a soft bare wire. Make sure the wire is in contact with each spark plug but not touching their center electrodes. Connect the free end of the wire to «weight». Having placed a bunch of candles in a place convenient for observation from the passenger compartment, turn the engine with a starter. Between the electrodes of the candles in turn (in accordance with the order of operation of the cylinders) merry sparks should fly. If so, then the entire ignition system is working. The sound of the engine in this case will be very unusual, but do not be alarmed, because it is spinning with the candles turned out. Don't spin for too long. Worse, if at the second stage of the test there is another option: sparks between the center wire and «weight» No. So, it's not about high voltage circuits. Further searches will be more difficult, evaluate the supply of your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage.
Stage three. Check if voltage is applied to the ignition coil. This is easy to do with a tester, and if not, you can use the engine compartment lamp. True, you need a couple of wires to connect it to the coil. You need to connect the light bulb between «weight» and primary winding input.
At the third stage, as usual, two options are also possible: voltage is either applied to the coil or not. If it is supplied, the coil is to blame - breakdown or short circuit, which, however, happens extremely rarely. The coil will need to be changed. More often there is a bad contact in the connection of wires to the coil. Or the same wet mud, through which the spark flows out to no one knows where. Sometimes the coil is polished to a shine, but underneath it remains an invisible, very narrow strip of dirt - a good conductor.
If at the third stage you made sure that the coil is not energized, the electronics or contacts and unreliable connections in the low-voltage part of the ignition system are to blame. with electronics (switch and less often a sensor in the distributor housing) you can't handle it - you need special equipment to diagnose them. You can only pull the sensor connector on the distributor housing - suddenly it will help. The voltage at the connector pins is only 12 V, so you can pull it fearlessly. If tension appeared (when the contacts are pulled, the light flashes), restore everything unscrewed and disassembled, start the car and, maybe, still have time to go about your business. If the engine does not start, but at least sneezes, turn out the candles and... (see above).
It may also happen that the entire ignition system was checked, it is in order, but the engine, even if you crack, still does not start. This means that there are problems with another of the previously mentioned systems - the power supply system, that is, the supply of fuel to the engine.
If you have an injection machine (fuel injection system), don't touch her (to the system). You can only come to the conclusion that it is she who is faulty: there is a spark, the fuel is suitable - that means she is darling. Treatment only in a hospital. At home and with handicraftsmen, repairing it is useless and even harmful.
We saved the rare but most unpleasant diagnosis for last. If the starter is working fine, and you have already spent a lot of time and made sure that the ignition and power are in perfect order, but the car still does not start, it is worth inspecting the camshaft drive belt. However, decide for yourself: this check can be carried out at the beginning, especially if the engine has traveled more than 60 thousand km. The difficulty is that you have to remove or at least partially bend the upper part of the plastic or metal casing covering the belt. The belt may have sheared teeth (belts, like people, lose teeth from old age). In this case, the camshaft does not rotate and the engine will not work. It is clear that the toothless belt needs to be replaced. The procedure for replacing the belt is simple, but rather troublesome. It is carried out in a hospital. Well, if everything is limited to replacing one belt, and not bent valves or the entire cylinder head - this also happens.
Clogging of the power system (about the reasons «atherosclerosis»)
Let's try to explain why the circulatory system of a car is sometimes affected «atherosclerosis». Gasoline is the blood of the car. And the blood must be pure and run through clean vessels. And in the fact that in the vessels in excess of the permissible measure accumulates «cholesterol», usually we are to blame. How often do you use a canister to add gasoline to the tank? If so, then the chances of clogging the gas line and filters increase, especially if your funnel is without a mesh. Garbage, rust, sand usually accumulate in the canister, and if the canister is painted inside, then paint particles. It is clear that the less intermediate containers are used on the way of gasoline from the dispenser to the tank, the better. Oddly enough, even at the most seedy gas station, there is less dirt in tanks in specific terms than in «home» canister. The scourge of our gas stations is not so much dirt as water. But here we are powerless. However, in order not to add water to domestic diluted gasoline with your own hands, try to always keep the tank full. Condensation accumulates in an incomplete tank, especially in the off-season, when sudden temperature changes occur.
It is worth saying a few words about the battery. Since it is maintenance-free on most modern cars, it makes no sense to give operating instructions here. We will give just a few additional tips on how to keep the battery viable longer. Do not get carried away stuffing your car with additional energy consumers. The fact that the energy balance of the machine provides a certain reserve, allowing you to connect two or three «freeloaders», does not mean that you can hang six horns and ten fog lights on a car - have a sense of proportion. In addition, if you connect unintended consumers yourself, there is a high probability of damage to the insulation. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most qualified intervention in the electrical wiring of a car sooner or later makes itself felt in trouble.
If your battery «breathes incense», try not to turn off the engine during countless stops in the city. Nothing drains a battery like frequent use of the starter.
And finally (this applies not only to the battery, but also to the entire electrical equipment of the car), remember: all terminals, contacts, wire lugs must be dry and clean, well adjacent to «destinations». Dirty, oily insulation breaks through sooner or later, and burning and oxidation of any contact surface can serve as the only (and sufficient) failure of the ignition system or fire.
You can stop there. Meticulous motorists, of course, drew attention to some superficiality of our advice. We admit that we deliberately do not want to go deep into the jungle, so as not to provoke you to self-treatment - it does not lead to good. Understanding the nature of pain in the lower abdomen on the right does not mean that you yourself have to remove your appendix. But you must accurately describe the symptoms of appendicitis to the doctor. It helps a lot with the treatment.
Service station visit (car service)
They say that abroad, an emergency car is abandoned on the road, and they receive a completely corrected one at the threshold of their own house. The insurance company is busy with the car, it also pays for the work, the owner often does not even know in which car service and who was involved in its restoration.
Someday it will be so with us, but in most cases (especially if repairs are not trusted by a branded station) our owner, turning to a car repair shop, is forced to enter into a long and sometimes difficult relationship with its masters and mechanics. In relations, on which, as we know, the quality of repair and its price often depend. It's no secret that the same master does the same work with completely different quality. And the point here is not the evil will or the mood of the performer, but the fact that in our far from comfortable conditions, the repair of machines turns into more often creative work, the result of which, among other things, strongly depends on the desire of the one who will perform it, and that the impression that the customer will make on him. There is even an unspoken rule: what is the client - such is the work. And although the client is always right, his rightness has a different effect on the outcome. What are we like? And how to behave correctly so as not to be a loser in every sense?
View from the car service
Workshop workers characterize the most typical customers and express their attitude towards them in different ways. The overall picture looks like this.
Client- «dude». Arrives in a car hung with various «lotions» And «bells and whistles»: additional headlights, brake lights, spoilers, active antennas, etc. It seems that the main components of his car are not the engine and gearbox, but a tape recorder with speakers. Masters of such clients do not like. As a rule, they are not able to appreciate all the work spent on repairing the object of their desire, but they are ready to find fault with a trifling scratch that allegedly did not exist before.
The complete opposite of dudes - «hard workers». These are people for whom a car is not just a means of transportation, but a means of subsistence. These basically turn to the services of the service to perform those jobs that they cannot do themselves due to the lack of a special tool or capabilities. They do not pay attention to minor defects, but they are quite capable of making a real scandal if it turns out that, say, white sealant was used to seal the head cover, and not red high-temperature sealant.
«Innovators». Their cars are equipped with additional filters, electronic correctors, gasoline magnetizers, electrical systems for protecting the body from corrosion, «fancy» candles. Turning to the services of a service with a rattling engine that requires a major overhaul, such customers are sincerely surprised that, it turns out, despite all the aspect modifiers that they regularly poured into the engine, the oil still needed to be changed. Masters don't respect them.
Very time consuming car repair «riders», accustomed to them only to ride. Treating a visit to a car service as a visit to a dentist (go when it's too tight), they trigger minor illnesses to the point where it's easier to throw the car away than to treat it all. On such machines, it is easier not to unscrew the nuts, but to cut them off immediately «grinder». These will learn with interest that a torn CV joint boot in a month leads to the replacement of the entire assembly. In early spring, careless people appear in the workshops «snowdrops», a variation of the same «riders». In their eyes, a silent question: «Why did the car run briskly last autumn, and now it creaks like an unlubricated cart, the gears do not switch, and the engine does not start well?». They cannot understand that if the car is not preserved, then many parts of its suspension, engine, and even the body itself deteriorate more from long-term parking under the snow than from daily trips.
A special category is female drivers. On their cars, as a rule, all maintenance work is regularly performed, the engine is clean, the cars are well-groomed. It is difficult for women to assess the real danger of any creak or knock, and they turn to workshops for any reason. Sometimes for nothing like replacing a blown fuse. Their machines do not give mechanics much trouble, but the masters look down on them.
In general, as you might guess, car service workers treat almost all customers (in my heart for sure!) arrogant and disdainfully condescending. And not only with us. This is explained, apparently, by the psychology of perception: «They ride, and we carry them sleds». There is even a saying: «The driver - only the gasket between the steering wheel and the seat, which should be changed first». Rich and not so rich «teapots» And «know-it-alls», quick-tempered as gunpowder and calm as tanks - we are all beyond the love and deep respect of those who turn the screws on us. Then who, if not loved, then at least respected by the masters, to whom do they repair with the highest quality and diligence? Most successfully, judging by our observations, the masters develop relationships with those who know the specifics of car repair and represent, at least in general terms, what and how to do. At the same time, such a person does not have to be able to «turn nuts», but his knowledge and ideas are quite enough to understand why he had to do one thing and not another, what caused the deviation from the rule and the accepted canon, and most importantly, it is difficult for him «rub glasses». He can always forgive an oversight or mistake, but he is able to strictly demand for hack work. He always knows what he wants and knows how to get it.
Well, if there are no such skills, as there is no desire (strength, time) delve into the specifics of the repair, believing that the car was not bought for that? Then you need to choose such a branded car service, where the quality is guaranteed by its high reputation and strict control by the management. But we are not talking about that now. How to behave? The following tips will help you avoid typical mistakes that affect the quality of work and their price.
To visit a car service, you need to prepare. Wash your car. Especially in places of planned renovation. Remove everything superfluous from it. Turn off the alarm and unscrew the secret nuts, putting them in a conspicuous place. Cover the seats with old covers, a clean rag or polyethylene. Some leave a bottle of mineral water in a conspicuous place. By doing this, you show respect for the people who will deal with your car. Try your best to make future work easier. If the car has additional electrical equipment (power windows, additions to the ignition system, etc.), leave the schemes or warn about their presence.
Be prepared to clearly describe the damage that needs to be repaired, and ask you to check the operation of the parts that need to be repaired in front of you. Do not make a diagnosis yourself, and even more so do not give categorical recommendations. If you say, for example «pull the chain», having heard that she is making noise, they will simply stretch her to you. And after a few days, the damper will collapse and, for example, the entire cylinder head will fail. Ask the master to listen to the engine (see pendant) and decide together which parts must be replaced and which must be repaired. Coordinate here the list of replaced elements and stipulate who purchases them. If the service takes responsibility for quality (especially complex) parts, it is better to entrust their purchase to him, even if this slightly increases the cost of repairs. When buying parts yourself, choose the best of what is available. Do not save on trifles - nuts, caps, covers, «rubber bands» and in general all disposable parts. Their replacement not only improves the quality of the repair, but also greatly simplifies it, and at the same time cheers up those who directly repair it. If you have no idea how this or that malfunction is fixed, do not be too lazy to open the instructions or repair manual and at least in general terms get to the bottom of the matter. This will give you credibility in the eyes of the mechanic, make him work more carefully, and allow you to control the progress of the work. If you have the opportunity and desire, be present during the repair, or at least regularly inquire about its progress. In the process of work, many small questions arise: do not do, change do not change. It is better if they are solved immediately. In addition, defects are revealed, which will then be very difficult to eliminate, but at the moment it is possible. For example, when a fender or rear panel is changed, an unsightly picture of corrosion of the elements surrounding them opens up (for vehicles previously subjected to body repair), it is easy to eliminate it along the way, but it must be agreed with the customer, since this requires additional costs on his part. Observe the work unobtrusively, do not stand over your soul. Finding and eliminating many «individual» problems happen by trial and error, and no one wants anyone to see that he is wrong. At the same time, be prepared to answer questions that arise or explain something to the master. He knows the car in general, and you know the behavior and background of this instance. In addition, only you know what kind of oil is poured into the engine and what kind of polish was used to process the body.
Try to control the quality of work in stages. A minor body defect, not specified in the initial calculation, is much easier to eliminate before priming than after painting.
Specify immediately the warranty period, the procedure for filing claims. Especially many questions arise about the quality of painting. For example, GOST allows light shagreen for this type of work, the presence of small weeds, but does not allow paint streaks. Our advice is don't demand a very smooth surface. It is easy to get by putting a thin layer of paint. In addition, in this case, there will be no streaks, while light shagreen, indicating a thick layer, can be polished, and the presence of a small streak even in an inconspicuous place will significantly reduce the cost of work.
Nothing lasts forever, but you probably will not be satisfied if, say, the paint peels off immediately after the expiration of the warranty given to you. It will be better if you buy (consulting with those who will work with them) consumables and some specific tools that may not be in the mid-level workshop. For example, if you have ever used silicone polish on your car, purchase a special product to remove it. Some polishes containing Teflon cannot be removed by anything, and it is necessary to remove all the paint with a special remover. Use only the best quality anti-corrosion primers, preferably two-component epoxy primers known to pass the salt spray test satisfactorily.
Turning to the workshop for the first time, think about the fact that a visit here, for sure, will not be the last. Therefore, make sure that the next repair delivers
fewer inconveniences for mechanics: ask the master to treat threaded and other connections with silicone grease before final assembly. Her, like the universal penetrating liquid (type WD-40), it is best to always have in the trunk.
Do not bargain after you have been given the final price, but before that ask for a detailed estimate for certain types of work. Here it makes sense to discuss it in more detail in order to eliminate double payment for the same work. For example, if you need to replace the brake pads and the brake cylinder, you cannot automatically add up the prices for these works, since to replace the cylinder you already need to remove the wheel and, for example, the brake drum.
And the last. Do not try to give the master a tip as a thank you, and even more so a bottle of vodka. This was customary when his salary was 5-6% of what you paid to the cashier. Today, his earnings, along with bonuses and other payments, are more than half of the amount you paid. Find other ways to show him your respect and appreciation. For example, give some souvenir or something like that.