Contents: 13.1.1. Removal ⇓ 13.1.2. Installation ⇓
13.1.1. Removal
- After removing the wheel cap, loosen the wheel nuts.
- Using a chisel as shown in the picture 173, strike the nut at the place of the coinage and release it while the car is still standing on its wheels on the ground.
Figure 173. Driving in the axle nut fastener with a chisel
- Raise the vehicle and place the front end on secure jack stands.
- Remove the wheel.
- Unscrew both mud flaps from the wheel arches.
- Drain the gearbox oil as already described. IN chapter 11.2.3 the step gearbox is described in chapter 12.2 - automatic transmission
- Remove both nuts from the stabilizer bar connecting rods on the underside of the wishbone and remove the washers, rubber bushings, and other parts. Remove the levers from contact.
- Release the lower wishbone ball joint mounting bolts from the wishbone and press the wishbone down until the ball joint disengages from the steering knuckle.
- Release the left drive shaft from the gearbox as follows:
— With the gearbox installed, insert a tire mounting tool between the joint and the drive shaft and install the gearbox housing as shown in figure 166, and hit the end of the lever until the shaft disengages from the gearbox. Make sure that the oil seal ring on the inside of the gearbox bore is not damaged in the process.
— With the automatic transmission installed, insert a chisel between the drive shaft and the bearing housing (into the groove of the bearing housing) and lightly tap the end with a chisel as shown in the picture 174 The shaft will then come out of the gearbox.
— Hold the constant velocity joint with one hand as shown in figure 167, and pull the steering knuckle outward until the shaft comes out of the wheel hub. After this, remove the shaft completely from the gearbox.
Figure 174. Knocking out the drive shaft from the gearbox with three automatic transmissions installed
(The text of the article is taken from the website: MAZBOOK.RU)
Remove the right drive shaft and connecting shaft as follows:
- Insert a tire mounting paddle between the drive shaft and the connecting shaft as shown in figure 168, and using a hammer and mandrel, strike in the manner shown to separate the drive shaft from the coupling shaft.
— Pull the front wheel bushing outward until the end of the shaft is free from the bushing and then separate the drive shaft from the clutch shaft.
— Unscrew the bolts securing the clutch shaft support and remove the support together with the shaft, remove it from the gearbox.
Note: A firmly seated drive shaft can be knocked out of the ear bushing using a double-arm puller. The puller jaws are installed under the sleeve, and the pressure spindle is in the middle of the shaft.
13.1.2. Installation
- Installation of the drive shaft is carried out in the reverse order of removal. Before inserting the shaft into the gearbox or into the sleeve, check the condition of the oil seal ring; always replace the safety rings in the grooves at the ends of the shafts. First, insert the end of the shaft into the sleeve and tighten the new nut by hand. Using a short blow, insert the joint into the gearbox and check that the retaining ring is seated properly while pulling the wheel hub outward.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the axle nuts to a torque of 235-319 Nm, after checking the maximum wheel bearing clearance as described later in the chapter "Front wheel suspension". Use a blunt chisel to strike the nut flange in the shaft groove to avoid splitting the material. Figure 175 shows how to secure the nut.
- When tightening the anti-roll bar arm nuts, tighten the first nut, then put on the second. Tighten both nuts alternately until the end of the thread protrudes 20.1 mm from the second nut. This will ensure the rubber bushings are properly pre-tightened. Tighten all other front suspension bolts and nuts to the tightening torque values given in the tables.
Figure 175. Prescribed chasing of the drive shaft nut. The size between the arrows should be more than 4 mm
