Body repair — minor damage (Mazda Capella GC)

Repair of minor scratches in the body structure

1. If the scratch is superficial and does not penetrate to the metal of the body structure, repair is very simple. Lightly rub the scratch area with a paint refinishing compound like Turtle Wax New Color Back, or a very gentle paste like Holts Body + Plus Rubbing Compound, to lift loose paint from the scratch and clean the surrounding body surface of wax polish. Rinse the area with clean water.

2. Apply automotive paint such as Holts Dupli-Color Color Touch or paint like Holts Autofilm to the scratch using a soft paint brush; continue applying thin coats of paint until the surface of the paint in the scratch is even with the surrounding paint. Add new coats of paint at least every two weeks to allow it to harden; then blend it into the surrounding paint by rubbing the scratch area with a refinishing compound or a very fine cleaning paste, such as Holts Body + Plus Rubbing Compound or Turtle Wax New Color Back. Finally, apply a polishing wax from the Turtle Wax line of polishes.

3. Where a scratch has penetrated through the paint to the metal of the body, causing rust, a different repair method is used. Remove the rust from the base of the scratch with a pocket knife, then apply a rust-inhibiting paint such as Turtle Wax Rust Master to prevent future rust. Using a rubber band or nylon indicator, fill the area with a primer like Hotts Body + Plus Knifing Putty. Before the primer sets into the scratch, wrap your finger in a smooth cotton cloth. Dip your finger into a cellulose compound, such as Holts Body + Plus Cellulose Thinners, and then quickly dab it across the surface of the paste in the scratch; this will make the surface being treated slightly hollow. The scratch can now be painted as described earlier in this Chapter.

Dent repair

4. When restoring dents, you must first straighten the dent as close to its original shape as possible. There is no point in trying to completely restore the original shape, since the metal in the damaged area will be deformed and will not be able to be restored to its original contours. It is better to bring the dent level to a mark 3 mm below the level of the surrounding metal. In cases where the dent is very superficial, you should not try to fix it at all.

5. If there is access to the back of the dent, it can be straightened out using a soft-faced hammer. While doing this, press a wooden block on the opposite side to absorb the hammer blows and prevent the metal from being pulled out.

6. If the dent is located in a point of the body that has double layers or for some other reason is inaccessible, a different technique is used. Drill several holes into the metal inside the damaged area, especially in deeper compartments. Screw self-tapping screws into the holes long enough to get a good grip on the metal. The dent can now be pulled out by pulling the protruding screw heads with pliers.

7. The next stage of repair is removing paint from the damaged area and 2.5 cm around the surrounding metal. This is easily done with a wire brush or sanding disc clamped to a drill, although it can be done just as effectively with sandpaper by hand. To complete the preparation for priming, scratch the metal surface with a screwdriver or file, or drill small holes in the area to be treated. This will ensure good adhesion to the filler material. To complete the repair, see the priming and painting section.

Repair of rusted holes or punctures

8. Remove all paint from the surface to be treated and for 2.5 cm around it using a wire brush or sandpaper clamped in an electric drill. This operation can also be done effectively by hand with sandpaper. After removing the paint, determine the severity of the damage and decide whether to replace the entire part or repair the damaged area. New body panels are not very expensive and it is often faster to install a new part than to repair major damage

9. Remove all parts from the damaged area, except those that will help restore the original shape of the damaged body (such as headlight frames, etc.). Cut out damaged or rusted metal. Hammer the inside edges of the holes to create a slight vacuum for the primer.

10. Use a wire brush to clean the damaged area to remove powdery rust. Paint the rust-damaged area with a corrosion-inhibiting paint, such as Turtle Wax Rust Master; if the back of the rusted area is accessible, treat it with anti-corrosion paint.

11. Before you start priming, seal the holes. This can be done by riveting or screwing the sheet metal, or by filling the holes with metal mesh.

12. Aluminum, plastic, or fiberglass matting, such as Holts Body + Plus Glass Fiber Matting, is probably the best material for patching large holes. Cut a piece of material to approximately the size and shape of the hole to be filled, then place it in the hole so that the edges are below the level of the surrounding body structure. It can be secured with a few drops of primer around the perimeter.



13. Aluminum tape should be used for small or very narrow openings. Unroll a section of the roll and measure it to the approximate size and shape required, then remove the insulating paper (if used) and place the tape over the hole; it can be overlapped if the thickness of one part is not enough. Use a screwdriver handle or something similar to score the edges of the tape and check that the tape is securely attached to the metal.

Body structure repair - priming and painting

14. Before reading this point, see. Points about dents, deep scratches, rust holes and puncture repair.

15. There are many types of body primers, but generally speaking, kits that contain primer and hardener resin are best for this type of repair, such as Holts Body + Plus or Holts No Mix, which can be used straight from the tube. To apply and level the primer, you will need a wide nylon brush or flexible plastic.

16. Mix a small amount of primer with thickener in a clean container (use thickener sparingly). Follow the manufacturer's instructions on the package. Alternatively, Holts No Mix can be used straight from the tube without mixing, but it requires daylight to cure. Using a brush, apply primer to the prepared surface. To achieve the desired contour and level the surface, run the brush across the surface of the primer each time. Once you have achieved contours close to the original, stop applying the paste. Continue applying thin layers of paste every 20 minutes until the filler level is close to the level of the surrounding metal.



17. Once the filler has hardened, any excess can be removed with a file or sandpaper. Use coarser grit paper first and finish with finer grit paper. Always wrap the sandpaper around a flat block to ensure a completely smooth surface. While sanding the surface, fine sandpaper should be periodically rinsed in water to obtain a very smooth surface.

18. At this stage, the "dent" should be surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in turn should be surrounded by a "smooth" edge of good paint. Rinse the repair area with clean water to remove all dust.

19. Spray the primer aerosol onto the surface to be treated. This could be Holts Body Plus Grey or Red Oxide Primer - this will reveal all the imperfections on the surface of the filler. Repair any defects with new primer or filler and sand the surface again. Repeat this procedure until you are sure the surface is perfect. Rinse the area with clean water and let it dry.

20. Now you can start painting. It is produced by spraying in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free place. These conditions can be created in a paint shop, but if you have to work outdoors, choose a dry, windless day. If you are working indoors, wet the floor with water to protect it from dust. Trim parts such as chrome strips, door handles, etc., must be protected or removed. To do this, use duct tape and several layers of newspaper.

21. Before spraying, shake the paint bottle well. Then apply a test coat and practice the spray painting technique. Paint the area to be repaired. It should be applied over a well-dried, thick layer of primer.



22. Start spraying from the center of the repair area using Holts Dupli-Color Autospray, then using circular motions to reach the edges. Paint approximately 5 cm. beyond the edge of repair. Remove all protective coverings 10-15 minutes after spraying is complete.

23. Let the new paint dry for at least two weeks, then use a paint refresher such as Turtle Wax New Color Back or Holts Body + Plus Rubbing Compound. After that, use a special. polishing compound to blend the outline of the new paint with the old. Finally apply a wax coating.