Checking the crankshaft axial clearance with a micrometer
2. Push the crankshaft all the way back and set the micrometer to zero. Next, pull the crankshaft forward as far as possible and check the reading on the micrometer. The distance it moves is the axial clearance. If it is more than stated in Specifications, check the crankshaft thrust surfaces for wear. If there is no wear, new main bearings should correct the axial clearance.
3. If there is no micrometer, you cannot use feeler gauges because the axial pressure flanges on the center main bearing shell are only on the seat side, not on the cover.
4. Loosen each of the main bearing cap bolts simultaneously by a quarter turn until they can be removed by hand. Check the main bearing caps to see if they are marked with respect to their locations. They are usually listed sequentially from the front to the rear of the engine. If this is not the case, mark them with stamped numbers or a punch (photo). The main bearing caps have an arrow pointing toward the front of the engine (photo).
Most main bearing caps are factory numbered and have an arrow pointing toward the front of the engine |
If the main caps are not identified by numbers and construction marks to indicate the position and installation direction, mark them with a punch |
5. Lightly tap the caps with a soft-faced hammer, then separate them from the engine block. If necessary, use the main bearing cap retaining bolts as a lever to remove the cap. Try not to miss the bearing shell if it comes out with the cover.
Removing the release bearing from the crankshaft (models with manual transmission)
(The full text is on the website: «MAZBOOK»)
6. Carefully remove the crankshaft from the engine. Get an assistant as the crankshaft is quite heavy. With the bearing shells positioned in the engine block and main bearing cap, return the caps to their respective positions on the engine block and tighten the bolts in the direction of the arrow. On manual transmission models, remove the release bearing from the end of the crankshaft using a sliding hammer (the tool is available in specialized workshops).