17.5.1. Removal and installation
Unscrew the brake lines from the cylinder. The ends of the pipeline must be sealed using a suitable method. For vehicles with ABS, cylinders use hollow bolts for connections and the O-rings must be assembled. This design also requires that the lock washer for the clutch line be unscrewed.
Remove the plug from the brake fluid indicator switch near the top of the cylinder.
Release the brake master cylinder mount from the end surface of the brake booster and carefully remove the cylinder so as not to drip brake fluid onto the painted surface. The brake cylinder is installed in the reverse order of removal. Set the brake pedal clearance (chapter 17.1.1). Bleed the air from the brake system after installation (chapter 17.6).
17.5.2. Repair of the master brake cylinder
When repairing the master brake cylinder, the following points must be observed:
- Replace all rubber seals. For this purpose, repair kits are available and all parts included in the kit must be used during assembly.
- Carry out assembly and disassembly in a clean environment.
- Before installation, soak all rubber seals in clean brake fluid for one minute.
- When ordering a repair kit, please provide the chassis number and model, as the master cylinder is sometimes replaced without being checked.
Using Figure 238:
Figure 238. Installation drawing of the master brake cylinder. 1. Liquid level switch; 2. Lock bolt with "O"-ring; 3. Retaining spring ring; 4. Push piston; 5. Intermediate pistons; 6. Receiver; 7. Liquid level float; 8. Mesh filter, blocking device; 9. Safety sleeve; 10. Lid; 11. Rubber bushing
- Remove the cap (6) and drain the brake fluid.
- Clamp the cylinder in a vice.
- Remove the fluid level switch (1) from the cylinder.
- Using snap ring pliers, remove the retaining ring (3) from the hole. To do this, push the piston inward slightly so that the spring force does not affect the ring.
- Using a Phillips head screwdriver, remove the locking bolt (2) from the bottom. Do not lose the sealing washers.
- Shake out all internal parts from the hole. If the parts are seated tightly, you can push them out with compressed air. To do this, you need to put the compressed air hose on the connecting hole of the cylinder and close the second hole of the pipeline with your thumb. Wrap the cylinder with a rag so that it does not fly away.
- Remove the cuffs from the piston using your fingers.
- If further disassembly is required, the receiver must be removed from the rubber bushing. The rubber bushing can also be pushed out with a screwdriver. Clean all parts in brake fluid or alcohol.
- If the cylinder bore or piston still looks good, then you need to measure the bore diameter and the outside diameter of the piston with a micrometer. The difference between the two gaps, i.e. the working gap, cannot be more than 0.15 mm.
- Dip new piston seals in brake fluid and place them on the piston. Reassemble the cylinder in accordance with the assembly drawing.
- Use a screwdriver to press the piston into the hole as shown in the picture 239, and unscrew the locking bolt without applying much force. After this, remove the screwdriver and check if the piston is holding. Check that the snap ring (3) fits properly in the groove.
(Article is based on website data: MazBook.ru)
Figure 239. Releasing the locking bolt on the bottom of the master cylinder
