2. Inspect the main and connecting rod journals for uneven wear, cracks, scoring, scratches and pitting.
3. Remove burrs from the edges of the oil holes with a file or scraper.
4. Inspect the remaining surfaces for cracks or other damage. It would be a good idea to check the shaft with magnoflox for internal cracks - this can be done in a specialized workshop.
5. Measure the diameters of the main and connecting rod journals with a micrometer and compare the obtained results with Technical data (see Figure 19.5). By measuring the diameter of the neck in several wheelbarrows around the circumference, determine the ellipse. To determine taper, measure the diameter at both ends of the necks and near the cheeks. The shaft runout should also be checked, but this requires, in addition to the dial indicator, a large instrumental prism. If you do not have such a tool, contact a suitable workshop.

6. If wear, out-of-roundness or taper are outside the permissible limits, send the shaft for resurfacing. After this, when installing the bike, use the repair size liners.
7. Inspect the seal surfaces at both ends of the shaft for excessive wear or damage. If the cuff has worn through the groove in the neck, the new cuff will leak. In some cases, a workshop can correct this defect by turning the journal and pressing a thin bushing onto it. If such a repair is not possible, the shaft will have to be replaced.
8. Measure the length of the main bearing cap bolts from the bottom surface of the head to the end of the thread. On 4-cylinder engines, the length of the bolts should not exceed 68.5 mm, and on V-shaped engines - 138.5 mm for long bolts and 121.0 mm for short ones. If the length of the bolts exceeds the specified values, it means that the bolts have stretched during operation and must be replaced. If even one bolt is found to be defective, replace the entire bolt set.
9. Inspect the main and connecting rod bearing shells as specified in paragraph 20.
